Jump to content

Trailer lights don't work

Jimmyjam
 Share

Recommended Posts

SuperAllTerrain Enthusiast

SuperAllTerrain

Posted
Posted
I've got a 2016 CC LTZ short box and no matter what trailer I pull i have no drivers side turn signal or brake light. I even rewired my trailer (and my buddy hooked up his truck to it and it works fine) and have pulled my buddies boat( didn't work on mine). Still doesn't work. I am bringing it in to the dealership on Monday. But just was wondering if anyone else has had the same issue?
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you figure the problem I have the same issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SuperAllTerrain Enthusiast

SuperAllTerrain

Posted
Posted
I have a 16 Silverado with the same problem there are 2 relays in the circuit board that controls each side for the brake and turn signal under the fuse box that if the fuse don't blow it will burn the relay up I just changed the whole fuse box out cost me $232 and about 10 minutes and I got mine working again. Chevrolet has a bulletin out about using cheap fuses causing a lot of trouble. If I can help with pictures message me. Also my camper had a short I used a cheap fuse and that's what took mine out.

Yes please help out with pictures I’m having the same issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Michael04 New Member

Michael04

Posted
Posted (edited)

Easiest way to see if the relay is burnt out is to cut the switch on without starting your truck flip the turn signal to either left or right pop the hood and in the fuse block you should be able to hear the relay clicking if you don't that's more than likely your problem. If you look close above the 2 10 amp fuses the fuse for one of the turn signal is melted

IMG_20200101_193354352.jpg

Edited by Michael04
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
bububabo New Member

bububabo

Posted
Posted

 Jimmyjam, did you ever figure the problem out?

I've got the same issue lately and I think it's the fuse too.

Pain in the butt though.

 

  • 9 months later...
Hugrafix New Member

Hugrafix

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado and bought a boat and the trailer lights werent working.  I got the left blinker/brake working and found the issue was the ground, once I cleaned the mounting area the blinker and brake started working.  This is where I made my mistake, as the blinker was still blinking I was getting all my other wires fastened, I touched one of the wires to the trailer and it shorted  both the blinker and brake lights on the left side.

 

I bought all new lights and wiring as they were mismatched anyhow and rewired the trailer, when I tested still no blinker or brake on left side.  After checking everything, I found out about the trailer FUSE which when I checked it was blown.  I ordered fuses last night and replaced FUSE 14 which is for the trailer left turn and brake, tested again and no change, still no left turn or brake.  

 

All lights on Right side work and running lights on left side.  I also grounded to trailer with jumper cables just to make sure that was not the issue.  What can I do next to get my issue resolved?

  • 4 weeks later...
Tech Junky New Member

Tech Junky

Posted
Posted

Having the same issue on my 2017 Denali 2500HD. Tried turning the auto lights off and turning on manually but that didn't work. Currently only the right trailer turn signal does not work. Checked the fuse and it's good. Tested for voltage at the fuse and nothing. Turning on the left turn signal I can hear a click like a relay is being engaged and disengaged as the light blinks but do not hear that when the right signal is on. Thinking it's the 'engine compartment fuse block'. No signs of melting though. Thankfully I have an extended warranty and that is covered. Will post once I have it diagnosed and fixed. Will be a few weeks.

Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Tech Junky said:

Having the same issue on my 2017 Denali 2500HD. Tried turning the auto lights off and turning on manually but that didn't work. Currently only the right trailer turn signal does not work. Checked the fuse and it's good. Tested for voltage at the fuse and nothing. Turning on the left turn signal I can hear a click like a relay is being engaged and disengaged as the light blinks but do not hear that when the right signal is on. Thinking it's the 'engine compartment fuse block'. No signs of melting though. Thankfully I have an extended warranty and that is covered. Will post once I have it diagnosed and fixed. Will be a few weeks.

Have you metered out the receptacle on the truck?  Or get a receptacle tester.  If the receptacle works as advertised, then it's the trailer.

 

Amazon.com: CURT 58270 7-Pin RV Blade Trailer Wiring Towing Vehicle Socket Tester: Automotive

 

Four-Way Trailer Light Tester

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...
paul Sufady New Member

paul Sufady

Posted
Posted
On 5/10/2019 at 9:32 AM, Michael04 said:

I have a 16 Silverado with the same problem there are 2 relays in the circuit board that controls each side for the brake and turn signal under the fuse box that if the fuse don't blow it will burn the relay up I just changed the whole fuse box out cost me $232 and about 10 minutes and I got mine working again. Chevrolet has a bulletin out about using cheap fuses causing a lot of trouble. If I can help with pictures message me. Also my camper had a short I used a cheap fuse and that's what took mine out.

 

  • 3 years later...
SquattedChevOnBlack Enthusiast

SquattedChevOnBlack

Posted
Posted
On 4/26/2021 at 3:02 PM, Tech Junky said:

Having the same issue on my 2017 Denali 2500HD. Tried turning the auto lights off and turning on manually but that didn't work. Currently only the right trailer turn signal does not work. Checked the fuse and it's good. Tested for voltage at the fuse and nothing. Turning on the left turn signal I can hear a click like a relay is being engaged and disengaged as the light blinks but do not hear that when the right signal is on. Thinking it's the 'engine compartment fuse block'. No signs of melting though. Thankfully I have an extended warranty and that is covered. Will post once I have it diagnosed and fixed. Will be a few weeks.

💀*dies waiting for the warranty diagnosis and fix*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...