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Need help with new Front Actuator please


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Posted

I got the newer style actuator found on like 95+ trucks.. it is the bigger one that uses 3 wires.

 

My old one uses 2 wires and is smaller.

 

I don't have the plug for the new one.. but I made some crimps fit it.. now All I have to do is figure out which of the 5 pins are used.

 

 

** Does anyone know why there is 3 wires instead of 2 **

 

I need any info that ya'll can provide.. anything!!

 

Thanks

Posted

When I converted my 1994 truck with the newer style actulator the dealer sold me a wire harness to complete the conversion. I'm not sure of any other way because it involved soldering a wire in above the transfer case. If I remember it was about $20.00.

Posted

Copied text from another forum (Suburban) and has part numbers and HOW2 DIY.

 

Print it out and take it to a dealer for them to double check the part numbers for your rig.

 

===============================

 

 

Sorry for screwing up this thread. For those with thermal actuators who want to update to electromechanical type, here is some info. I do not have the hot links readily available but the fix is in the archive.

 

Stock, the actuator is thermal. There is a TSB out to help convert to the motor-style actuator.

 

Actuator P/N 26060073 $ 52.31 jobber cost

Harness: P/N 12376316 $ 15.90

Refer to TSB 76-43-01A

 

"Went to another dealer and got the parts to replace my broken thermal actuator. Another Chevy dealer out of my town. Only THIS dealer sold me the

1998 actuator which is unaffected by the COLD! He told me that they KNOW that the earlier actuators fail and I should not

put that one back on. I found this unusual for a dealer to say this AND give me the non-standard part (mine is a 96). Many of you on this board have told me to get the "post 98" actuator"

but I thought it would be a hassle for the dealer to do this. They also installed it for $160 (plus the $90 parts).

 

My first (and local) dealer wanted $260 for just labor whata rip! I guess my point is to shop the dealers to get the best price on the labor.

 

Thanks RGV and all who helped with this problem! Hope I can be of service someday.

 

By the way the only change on the new part is a brown wire on the transfer case (power) that needs to be spliced to the new wiring harness brown wire . That is the only wiring that needs to be done for you do-it-your-selfers.

 

Derek"

 

"Posted by MartyC on January 21, 19100 at 15:12:03:

In Reply to: How hard is it to change out the 4x4 thermal switch... posted by

Mitch P on January 21, 19100 at 13:39:27:

: My suburban won't go in to 4wd and I suspect that it is the solenoid or switch

that is heat activated...where is the switch located, how much does it cost, and

how hard is it for a "do-it-yourself-er?

While this is the problem 95% of the time, some posters have found problems in

the switch itself, and not the actuator. Check the archives.

Replacing the actuator is easy; even for the novice. The OEM replacement unit is

electro-mechanical and costs under $90 at your local GM parts counter. Be sure

to get the wiring harness ($15) with it too.

To install, first disconnect the wires from the old unit and remove the old unit

by unscrewing it from the axle housing. Depending on the year, you may need to

install the aluminum spacer provided with the new unit. Lube it first. You may

also want to seal the threads on the new unit. Screw on the new unit. Attach the

wires, and run the brown wire up the firewall, over the transmission, and back

down to the t-case selector wire harness. Splice the brown wire to the brown

wire coming out of the t-case selector wire harness. Seal the connection so it

is water-tight. Test drive.

If you used the spacer, you may hear a little rattle until the gear oil coats

all exposed surfaces. Don't worry. Go play."

 

"The one I installed on my friends Suburban was spliced into the brown

wire. The wire I hooked into was on top of the transmission on the drivers

side, it is a two wire harness, one brown and one purple. I'm not sure if

it's the same for your vehicle.

Good luck,

Brian95"

Posted

Well with the junk-yard actuator (the newest style avail.) and the new harness kit.. 4WD works again!!

 

I got a 26060073 from the junk yard - wasn't sure this was the latest one until i got the spacer instructions with the kit and the junk-yard one has the same number printed on it that the kit says as to be the new one that replaces the old ones - 26013495/26043590).

 

Added the 3rd brown wire to the transfer case switch harness and viola!!

 

The engagement is very fast.. almost instant.. which compared to my old actuator.. was NEVER.

 

 

Thanks again.. with this info. I was able to get the retrofit harness & spacer together.

 

The part number you guys gave me (12376316) led to a different part number which cost a little more.. $34.

 

Maybe because it now comes with a spacer.. I am not sure.

 

The harness is a nice one, with the conduit and heating protection where it needs to be.

 

Other notes are:

 

I believe there is a little jet sounding noise now coming from the front.. as if the spacer is/was (it went away I think) riding whatever it presses against. I think it went away after a few miles of riding in 2WD again. I'll let ya'll know tomorrow, and post the new part number too.

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