Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2015 Silverado 5.3 Engine.  60K miles.  Started chirping noise.  First little then louder.  Becoming more of a tick.  Removed all belts.  Still have the noise.  Sounds like coming from under valve cover toward front on passenger side.   So 2 and 4 cylinders.  Probably 4.  I took valve cover off.  All looks right.  I took rockers off and push rods out.  All looks good.  I sprayed carb cleaner in push rod ports.  I put back together and treated with MotorMedic products.  Then changed oil.  Still have the noise.  The noise is there until the engine heats up after about 7 minutes of running.  Then there is no more noise.  You can drive it from then on with no noise.  So....the question is WHY?  Why is the noise there until engine becomes hot OR oil pressure is increasing?  Is it that the heat expands metal and once it expands the lifter operates normal?  OR is it that oil pressure builds and it works normal after it gets to proper oil pressure?  I can't afford thousands of dollars.  Im thinking try to replace the VLOM.  Even a used one to see if I can see a change.  The next step would be replace the lifters.  Ultimately I would remove AFM which allows you to get rid of the AFM lifters.   Also there is an oil screen on the VLOM that I have not checked.

Posted

Oil pressure is higher upon a cold start and lowers as engine warms up. Oil flow, gallons per minute changes also.

I think you're going to have to replace the lifters.

 

 

Posted
On 9/10/2021 at 5:10 PM, Johnny Dash said:

2015 Silverado 5.3 Engine.  60K miles.  Started chirping noise.  First little then louder.  Becoming more of a tick.  Removed all belts.  Still have the noise.  Sounds like coming from under valve cover toward front on passenger side.   So 2 and 4 cylinders.  Probably 4.  I took valve cover off.  All looks right.  I took rockers off and push rods out.  All looks good.  I sprayed carb cleaner in push rod ports.  I put back together and treated with MotorMedic products.  Then changed oil.  Still have the noise.  The noise is there until the engine heats up after about 7 minutes of running.  Then there is no more noise.  You can drive it from then on with no noise.  So....the question is WHY?  Why is the noise there until engine becomes hot OR oil pressure is increasing?  Is it that the heat expands metal and once it expands the lifter operates normal?  OR is it that oil pressure builds and it works normal after it gets to proper oil pressure?  I can't afford thousands of dollars.  Im thinking try to replace the VLOM.  Even a used one to see if I can see a change.  The next step would be replace the lifters.  Ultimately I would remove AFM which allows you to get rid of the AFM lifters.   Also there is an oil screen on the VLOM that I have not checked.

You'd need to swap the camshaft as well and do a full AFM delete. You cannot just swap lifters for non AFM lifters.

Posted

I've got a 2013 GMC and have a ticker in it, but so far no misfires. If I have the kind of problems you all are having, I'll probably try to find a Hemi and make it fit. You know as in Blasphemi, on Roadkill. These AFM engines appear to be nothing but continous headaches. I didn't realize they were in the GMC's until after my purchase. I got it used. I think someone before has already programmed the AFM out, as it stays in V8 all the time. Never seen it in V4. GM boondoggle in my book.

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hi I have a 2008 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L gas. Only 120,000 miles on it.

Flickering lights, check engine light, traction control off, service stabilitrak,Misfire cylinder #4, I replaced all plugs,wires,and swapped a couple of coil packs around, pulled injectors 2 and 4 out hook the injector up to a 9-volt battery, so I can open and close the injector while spraying the carburetor cleaner through a tube I made, I put injector 2 in the spot 4 injector, and I put injector 4 in the spot where injector 2 was ,new alternator,map sensor,  and throttle position sensor, also did a compression test that was good, still misfire cylinder 4. So I decided to remove the valve cover, all rockers are solid, no movement at all, so I did a crank test first,and all the lifter's moved, next I started the engine,and all lifters moved, within 5 seconds, lifter #4 exhaust side stopped moving. I have no ticking sound from the engine at all, could this be the VLOM solenoid? Or possibly the ECU, the ECU is what commands the solenoids to open and close from V4 to V8. I had a friend come over with his professional scanner, and the scanner showed misfire cylinder #4, brake control modular, and something with the  ECU.

Edited by Patty Leonard
Posted
On 9/14/2021 at 3:15 PM, BarryKH said:

I've got a 2013 GMC and have a ticker in it, but so far no misfires. If I have the kind of problems you all are having, I'll probably try to find a Hemi and make it fit. You know as in Blasphemi, on Roadkill. These AFM engines appear to be nothing but continous headaches. I didn't realize they were in the GMC's until after my purchase. I got it used. I think someone before has already programmed the AFM out, as it stays in V8 all the time. Never seen it in V4. GM boondoggle in my book.

I didn't know either, I just found out 3 weeks ago about the AFM issues,after researching my cylinder 4 misfire, if I knew about it,I would of had it deleted from the ECU

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have a 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT 4x4 with 5.3. I’m having problems with rough idle and traction control and stabiltrak. It’s throwing the code for the number 1 cylinder. Replaced the plug and wire and coil pack and injector. No change. Pulled valve cover off and both lifters in cylinder 1 aren’t moving. Just did a lifter change and put all back together except the valve cover. Started it up and lifters work for about ten seconds then they quit again. Still cylinder 1. Camshaft and everything inside motor looked to be in great shape when had it tore down. Should have replaced the vlom while I had the intake off but didn’t. Will installing the range afm disabler bypass the solenoids on the vlom and possibly keep from shutting off cylinder 1 lifters?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/20/2019 at 10:39 PM, swathdiver said:

Yes, you need to replace the VLOM and Lifter Guides too.  This is SOP with AFM repair.  It is the failure of a VLOM solenoid that causes the lifters to collapse because of a missed timing event.  If yours was built before April 2011 or so, get the new valve cover for the driver's side too.  (Well, make sure someone didn't replace it already). 

Swathdiver, can you contact me.  Im in Vero.  [email protected].  Lifter issue.  Tks.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 384 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...