Jump to content

Few Newbie Questions


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok guys, feeling like an idiot on a few things and not finding answers...sorry if my search skills just suck.

 

1. Just noticed looking in the manual tonight for other answers that the 6.2L recommends 93 Octane...haven't been doing that this first 1300 miles. Guess I'll switch, just wished I had noticed before I filled up tonight. I assume there isn't any damage done.

 

2. Auto high beams. Maybe I am just not used to it, but I am not liking it. When and where I drive at night I swear they are switching back and forth every 5-10 seconds. Not sure if it is a distraction to other drivers but it is me. Can that be disabled?

 

3. Looking through the settings menu on radio for answer to the high beam issue, I turned on the 'Easy Entry'. Totally screwed up seat settings from where I thought I had it set. Reset seat and turned off easy entry. Still messing up seat each time. Any trick to a good reset of that?

Posted

Should be no long lasting issues with the gas in the 6.2. Got nothing for ya on the other ones.

Posted

 

 

1. Just noticed looking in the manual tonight for other answers that the 6.2L recommends 93 Octane...haven't been doing that this first 1300 miles. Guess I'll switch, just wished I had noticed before I filled up tonight. I assume there isn't any damage done.

 

Have you noticed any pinging? I believe it recommends 93 when pulling or high altitudes you should be good with 87 otherwise if you don't hear detonation ping.

Posted

87 won't hurt it, they can run just fine on 87 with just a littler reduction in performance (maybe a mpg or two and about 10 or so hp). No biggie unless you are really pushing it and hearing pinging which usually happens under load in warmer weather or higher altitudes. Many such as our selves run 87 regularly.

 

Not familiar with number 2 but I would imagine it could be turned off. The third one should have been fixed turning it off, so not sure but a dealer trip might be due if it isn't going back to regular settings when you hit the memory button.

 

Tyler

Posted

Run the premium fuel like the manual says. While the 6.2 will run on the 87 octane, it is NOT good for the engine especially long term. If you have an engine issue and GM pulls the data logs, you could end up with them denying warranty work. Is it really worth saving $8 per fill up to take that chance? Not in my world it isn't.

Posted

Ok guys, feeling like an idiot on a few things and not finding answers...sorry if my search skills just suck.

 

1. Just noticed looking in the manual tonight for other answers that the 6.2L recommends 93 Octane...haven't been doing that this first 1300 miles. Guess I'll switch, just wished I had noticed before I filled up tonight. I assume there isn't any damage done.

 

2. Auto high beams. Maybe I am just not used to it, but I am not liking it. When and where I drive at night I swear they are switching back and forth every 5-10 seconds. Not sure if it is a distraction to other drivers but it is me. Can that be disabled?

 

3. Looking through the settings menu on radio for answer to the high beam issue, I turned on the 'Easy Entry'. Totally screwed up seat settings from where I thought I had it set. Reset seat and turned off easy entry. Still messing up seat each time. Any trick to a good reset of that?

You can turn off intellibeam (auto high beams) by flipping the high beam stalk on (forward) and off quickly. The little icon will vanish and the system is off. You can also temporarily shut it "off" by switching on your fog lights while the low beams are on. This will lock out your high beams from flipping on automatically.

 

As far as the seat adjustment goes without any more details from your my best guess is that you programmed the seat into the "exit" memory function instead of either driver 1 or 2. The function is designed to move the seat from driver 1 or 2 position into the exit position when the key is removed and the door opened and vice versa when the truck is started.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

You can turn off intellibeam (auto high beams) by flipping the high beam stalk on (forward) and off quickly. The little icon will vanish and the system is off. You can also temporarily shut it "off" by switching on your fog lights while the low beams are on. This will lock out your high beams from flipping on automatically.

 

As far as the seat adjustment goes without any more details from your my best guess is that you programmed the seat into the "exit" memory function instead of either driver 1 or 2. The function is designed to move the seat from driver 1 or 2 position into the exit position when the key is removed and the door opened and vice versa when the truck is started.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

worked on both accounts...thanks!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...