Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have been messing around with the front end of the truck checking every bolt trying to figure out what it was. I think I got it.

 

On top of the shock body there's a nut for the shaft. Both of mine were finger loose. I tightened them both down and we will see if that fixes the problem.

 

I have the Fox 2.0 shocks on it so maybe they didn't come torqued properly from Fox or they have loosened over time from driving through the desert.

 

I also torqued the u-bolt nuts on the rear axle as other members mentioned. All of those were fairly loose, meaning I could easily move them with my ratchet without much resistance. I tightened them down till they felt good to me. Not sure the torque specs on those but I shouldn't have been able to move them so freely.

 

I'll report back in a couple days if I don't feel the pop. It was a daily occurrence so I should know right away.

 

IMG 1317

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok everyone sorry I haven't been back in awhile. The dealership had me go for a ride after the steering shaft install to duplicate the problem. After duplicating the problem the tech said the rack and pinion is bad. Later that day I showed my coworkers the issue! We are all mechanics by the way. The one coworker said your steering shaft is bent. So I ran the truck back up to the dealership and showed them. They told me to wait until the put the rack in to check if it would straighten out. Fast forward to yesterday. They replaced rack and I check shaft before I left. It seemed fine to me. So I left drove And thought everything was good then it started happening again. The intermittent pop! I'm so frustrated I'm at a loss for words. like I stated before it isn't like it's the worst pop in the world. But man is it annoying having it happen every time you drive it! 48k dollar truck, two years old and having this happen. I don't want to try to fix it myself. But it might come down to this?

Posted

Oh and about the rear leaf springs. I had that happen on a Ford F-150 I had and this is nothing to do with the rear I believe. You hear it at the column and feel it in the steering wheel.

Posted

Ok everyone sorry I haven't been back in awhile. The dealership had me go for a ride after the steering shaft install to duplicate the problem. After duplicating the problem the tech said the rack and pinion is bad. Later that day I showed my coworkers the issue! We are all mechanics by the way. The one coworker said your steering shaft is bent. So I ran the truck back up to the dealership and showed them. They told me to wait until the put the rack in to check if it would straighten out. Fast forward to yesterday. They replaced rack and I check shaft before I left. It seemed fine to me. So I left drove And thought everything was good then it started happening again. The intermittent pop! I'm so frustrated I'm at a loss for words. like I stated before it isn't like it's the worst pop in the world. But man is it annoying having it happen every time you drive it! 48k dollar truck, two years old and having this happen. I don't want to try to fix it myself. But it might come down to this

Check the 3x nuts 15mm on top of each strut/coil for proper torque. They may be loose causing movement and the pop noise. That is the only thing I can think of without having the vehicle in front of me.

 

Thxs

Posted

I checked all front end bolts and it still did the same pop feel. I took it to another dealership and they looked at it twice heard and get the pop. They replaced the lower steering shaft again. I was on my way home and believe I felt it twice. I will know more tomorrow on my drive to work. But I don't think the feel/noise is gone. The only other thing would be the steering column? I can push and pull while alternating and I can her the noise. Plus the wheel feels kind of loose. Can someone try this out to see if theirs is solid?

Posted

Any play in your CV joints? If your CV axles / joints are going they will pop when turning and you would feel this in the steering wheel.

 

To be sure I would pull the front tires and check your axle nut is torqued to spec.

  • 4 years later...
Posted

GM #23214207 is the part you need. Just remove inner tie rod and replace this bushing. It has broken and catches on your steering rack.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Randy Ginoza
    Newest Member
    Randy Ginoza
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,864 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...