Jump to content

Who here has aftermarket exhaust

02 Silverado Z71

Recommended Posts

02 Silverado Z71 Enthusiast

02 Silverado Z71

Posted
Posted

I have owned my 02 Silverado for 6 days now, and yes, I am thinking about upgrading the exhaust. What are some popular brands, and how much is the cost. Does Hooker make anything for our trucks? I have heard Gibson on new C-K trucks; way too quiet.

I don't want something that will wake up a 6-block radius; I just want something that is deep/mellow and not expensive. Any thoughts?

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted

I've got a Borla single in dual out same side exit Cat-back setup. I'm happy with it. Great sound when I get on it but it can be quiet. A little resonance on highway but I've got a tahoe and the pickups may not have it. Paid around $450 delivered. Should last life of vehicle. Got 2 years and 85K on it and it looks great.

 

Others I would look at...Corsa, B&B.

 

Good Luck

BellevueSilvy Enthusiast

BellevueSilvy

Posted
Posted

Well this may sound ghetto but I just got a glasspack with duals straight out the back sounds sweet. Get many compliments on the sound and as far as costs I don't think you can get any cheaper than a glasspack. Just the right amount of noise not to loud just right. The set up is dual cats into a Y sigle glasspack back to duals with 3.5" chrome tips out the back.

petemata Enthusiast

petemata

Posted
Posted

 

:devil: Go with MagnaFlow #12586. It has a very nice deep rumble and very quit inside the cab. It also provides maximum flow. It the best investment I have done to my truck. :jester::fume:

greyghost03 Senior Enthusiast

greyghost03

Posted
Posted

Flowmaster! :fume: I love mine! :devil: I have the 40 series 3" inlet, dual 2.25" outlets that exit at the rear of the truck. I paid $260 at the Auto King shop by my house for the muff, pipes, tips and labor.

 

There you go- deep/mellow and not expensive! :jester:

elboberino Enthusiast

elboberino

Posted
Posted
Flowmaster! :devil:  I love mine! :D  I have the 40 series 3" inlet, dual 2.5" outlets that exit at the rear of the truck. I paid $260 at the Auto King shop by my house for the muff, pipes, tips and labor.

 

There you go- deep/mellow and not expensive! :fume:

 

I must agree. I have the same 40 series as greyghost03 but my pipes turn down right after the muffler. It's nice and loud and sounds extremely awesome. I got mine from TruckPerformance.com for about $60 and paid another $60 to get the turndowns welded on and my old exhaust (my quiet gibson) off. I've had many people ask me what my exhaust is, and I always let them know, FLOWMASTER!!! :jester:

cowboy02 Senior Enthusiast

cowboy02

Posted
Posted
I strongly agree with everyone, if you want a Kick @ss setup, flowmaster is the only way to go!! :):D

Or as I put it "LOUD AND LOUDER"

 

Flowmasters make some great stuff but just make sure that you want to wake up the neighbors every morning when you start your truck. If you want a nice sounding exhaust that has some rumble my vote is for magnaflow. If you want outright loud exhast 1 word.............

Yep you guessed it flowmaster.

Greg Senior Enthusiast

Greg

Posted
Posted

I have a Gibson catback that I put on the 1st month I bought the truck. It's too quiet. My son's truck has a Flowmaster 40 and it's very nice. My current exhaust focus is a new system for my vette. Thinking of Borla Stingers.

timk49 Enthusiast

timk49

Posted
Posted
well,uh gulp i to have the "Flowmaster"but mine are the 50series.but still sounds cool!

could you post the part number of your 50 series?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...