Jump to content

Swapping 17 LT headlights to LTZ


Recommended Posts

Posted

Noobie here. I have a 2017 LT Z71 with the stock "LED"?with only 1 upper strip of the LEDS. The ltz has 2 strips an upper and a lower where mine is just upper LEDS and the lower is the orange turn signal. Has anyone swapped headlights from the LT to the LTZ ones? Curious as to how much it would cost

Posted

Noobie here. I have a 2017 LT Z71 with the stock "LED"?with only 1 upper strip of the LEDS. The ltz has 2 strips an upper and a lower where mine is just upper LEDS and the lower is the orange turn signal. Has anyone swapped headlights from the LT to the LTZ ones? Curious as to how much it would cost

I have. Still in the process actually. I have a 2016, but it's the same for 2017. You won't need a new harness but you'll need to add resistors to prevent hyper flash. I built my own inline harnesses with resistors wired in. I didn't want to cut/slice into factory wiring. I bought Headlights from ebay. Was about $1500 for the red set. I removed the trim using the dental floss trick. They are getting painted as we speak. $80 to have them painted. Sold my stocks to offset the purchase. Hope this helps. I have extra materials for a couple more harnesses if you're interested.. PM me.

 

0b66cd9731044f8e7315a7b982007d59.jpg

 

8621cb97c69d2bfd58e7e692957409a5.jpg

 

8dd68f3730da64154c5a5c15df8908c8.jpg

 

248bf5ebed05edce2a8b0bc079bd1c8f.jpg

 

79c283252101edd8ee7da8d37c07e834.jpg

 

32d1bf896bed6f22ff4859b789d29bd4.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have also upgraded my DL8 Mirrors to DL3, LT tail lights to LTZ, Auto Dim frameless rear view mirror, and heated Steering wheel. It's almost an LTZ. LOL

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Front headlights uses 6 ohm for each side.

Rear Tail Lights need 3 ohm each side. 3 ohm 100 watt seem to perform better than 3 ohm 50 watt for the rears.

Resistors are tied into turn Signal and ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
    • Move further away.   Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time.   Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?
    • Switch a a 100% synthetic trans fluid, Amsoil works for me.
    • First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      
    • I'm at 105,000 miles on my baby Duramax. No issues yet. I hit 31 mpg's traveling through hilly terrain to a project in Colorado. I will buy another 3.0. I'm not concerned.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...