Those with the RC 3.5" No Cut "Lift" Kit

CuzznVinny · June 8, 2017

Got my kit delivered today. If I get a chance this weekend im going to drop it in.

shortnugly · June 9, 2017

Cranked mine to 3", ride was harsh so I backed it down to 2.5".

No blocks in the rear. Rear has a little rake to it. From all perspective, it looks level.

I was able to stuff 35s with some modifications.

Bgill · June 9, 2017

I used the rear blocks and have .5" of rake and the ride is fine kit installed per RC instructions then realigned. I'd say better then stock ride then again I run 60 PSI up front and 65 PSI in the back for day to day driving which made a big difference in itself.

Cranked mine to 3", ride was harsh so I backed it down to 2.5".

No blocks in the rear. Rear has a little rake to it. From all perspective, it looks level.

I was able to stuff 35s with some modifications.

shortnugly · June 9, 2017

I'm running 58 PSI in front and 61 PSI rears. I thought it might trigger the TPMS sensors but it hasn't yet.

RC makes a good kit. Addresses all the key points and is affordable.

Did the level first with the stock 265s first. Just a hair firmer than without the level. Still pretty sharp and responsive.

After I put the 35s on, WAY different ride. I can feel the weight and girth of the heavier wheels and wider tires. It feels like my 2005 Dmax with 315 65 18's.

Feels more planted but definitely not racey like before. She's ready to work!!

Post some pics of your truck when you get a chance.

Bgill · June 9, 2017

I'm running 58 PSI in front and 61 PSI rears. I thought it might trigger the TPMS sensors but it hasn't yet.

RC makes a good kit. Addresses all the key points and is affordable.

Did the level first with the stock 265s first. Just a hair firmer than without the level. Still pretty sharp and responsive.

After I put the 35s on, WAY different ride. I can feel the weight and girth of the heavier wheels and wider tires. It feels like my 2005 Dmax with 315 65 18's.

Feels more planted but definitely not racey like before. She's ready to work!!

Post some pics of your truck when you get a chance.

Photo's are located in this thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/201482-2016-silverado-2500hd-new-wheelstiresrc-kitetc/

baddiesel · June 9, 2017

I've been following this super informative thread. I too am interested in purchasing the RC 3.5" (no cut, no drill lift). What kind of "modifications" did you have to perform after you lowered it to only 2.5" lift in the front. Was it major trimming of the inner bumper valance or inner fender liners? I understand you have MKW 20" x 9" with +10 offset (?) How far does the tire stick out from the fender wells? Thanks in advance!

baddiesel · June 9, 2017

Sorry, I made a mistake in double posting. I tried to delete the extra post. Didn't work with the edit button. At any rate, I think you'all have very nice setups. I'm "on the fence" regarding tire size, wheel size, off set, back spacing, etc. One thing is for sure. I will not install the rear block, and I will only crank the torsion bars to 2.5 inches. My truck is a daily (long distance) driver. I'm hoping to be get large enough Michelin LTX MS2's, with a load range E rating. I can only say thanks in advance for sharing your experience and information. This has been a lot of help.

shortnugly · June 9, 2017

Bgill, I saw your pics, helluva nice truck.

I like the slight rake in the rear. Looks ready for work without the stock nosedive. Good job.

shortnugly · June 9, 2017

Sorry, I made a mistake in double posting. I tried to delete the extra post. Didn't work with the edit button. At any rate, I think you'all have very nice setups. I'm "on the fence" regarding tire size, wheel size, off set, back spacing, etc. One thing is for sure. I will not install the rear block, and I will only crank the torsion bars to 2.5 inches. My truck is a daily (long distance) driver. I'm hoping to be get large enough Michelin LTX MS2's, with a load range E rating. I can only say thanks in advance for sharing your experience and information. This has been a lot of help.

Fronts and rears measure 1 3/8" outside the plastic fender trim. That's with a +10 offset. I'd say you could go to a +18 or +20 offset and not rub on the sway bar or frame.

My goal was to fit the biggest tire I could, with no lift, just a level. I like the stock ride too much to mess with it. I've had 4 and 5" lifts and, no matter how nice the quality of the lift, the truck wanders a bit.

Plus, I tow so i don't want to raise my center of gravity anymore than I have to.

I'm getting ready to do a write up on the whole level/mod project with lotsa pics. Hope others can benefit from my experiments.

baddiesel · June 10, 2017

Thanks shortnugly, I look forward to your report. This is great info!!! Wonder if the RC 3.5" will void my warranty(?). I would hope not, since nothing is permanently altered (ie no cutting or drilling).

CuzznVinny · June 10, 2017

Threw on the front today,

Measurements from center of hub to fender:

Stock: Front 24" Rear 27"

With Kit: Front 26 3/4" Rear 27"

So its pretty much perfectly level now. Now I'm deciding if i'm going to do the rear tomorrow or leave it as is.

As far as ride quality, I'd say its pretty close to stock, maybe a little firmer.

Added some bushwacker flares while i was at it. Now with the flares and the level the stock duratracs look tiny.

shortnugly · June 12, 2017

I know the feeling. The fender wells are unusually tall so it diminishes the tire size from the beginning.

Once you level it, it increases the distance above the tire even more.

What size tires are you planning on putting on?

CuzznVinny · June 12, 2017

I know the feeling. The fender wells are unusually tall so it diminishes the tire size from the beginning.

Once you level it, it increases the distance above the tire even more.

What size tires are you planning on putting on?

I'm thinking:

305/55/20 (33x12.5x20)

or

295/60/20 (34)

From what I've read if I go with a +20 both will fit with no rub.

I have the flares so I'd like to go with a 0 offset, but don't know.

Bgill · June 12, 2017

I'm thinking:

305/55/20 (33x12.5x20)

or

295/60/20 (34)

From what I've read if I go with a +20 both will fit with no rub.

I have the flares so I'd like to go with a 0 offset, but don't know.

I was told I had a choice +20 and the sizes you mention or +0 and 295/55/20 otherwise running the +0 with the larger tire sizes would require some minor surgery wasn't willing to do at this time (maybe in 40k or so miles I'll reconsider).

I went with the +0 as I wanted a little more lip on the rim and 295/55/20 and after some initial second guessing myself because of the tall wheel wells I'm happy with my decision. Speedo is spot on (no mods or adjustments) and only lost 0.5 mpg on my fuel mileage which I consider a win. Also I added the red GM caliper covers which draws my eyes down to the wheels and I'm not so keenly focused on the wheel gap anymore....LOL.

shortnugly · June 22, 2017

I'm thinking:

305/55/20 (33x12.5x20)

or

295/60/20 (34)

From what I've read if I go with a +20 both will fit with no rub.

I have the flares so I'd like to go with a 0 offset, but don't know.

If you went with the 295/60 20s you could go with the +20 or +18 and still be ok. You may have to trim the front valance at a slight angle...... or you may not.

The 295s are a taller tire and would fill the wheel well more proportionately to the height. Also, consider a stock wheel is +44 and sits just under flush with stock tires. the additional +24 offset will bring your wheel/tire edge out an additional inch. 1 inch = 24 mm.

It's a big truck. It needs big tires.