Jump to content

Rebuilding an '87 350


Recommended Posts

Posted

We will be puting it in an '85(?) Chevy truck.

 

Any advice of anything specific to look for, replace?

 

He is trying to get out as cheap as possible with a reliable motor.

 

My advice so far is to replace:

 

All bearing surfaces

Full gasket/seal kit

Have crank journals polished

Magnaflux block

New cam/lifter/valvespring kit

New piston rings

New Wrist pins

Get rid of fuel injection, get 600cfm carb and aluminum intake

 

 

Any advice?

Posted

Sounds like a good plan. It wouldn't be hard to keep the TBI injection if you wanted to.

 

While you have it apart, I'd consider having it bored .030" to make it like new again. Just get 30-over pistons for it.

 

I'd also look at the distributor. If you can reuse it since its advanced electronically, I would check to make sure the shaft doesn't have too much play in it.

 

Depending on how many miles you have on the motor, you might look at having the valves and valve seats resurfaced.

 

I may be stating the obvious, but I'd make sure you put new valve seals in and a new timing chain and gears. I would also replace the oil pump while you have it apart.

 

Assuming its all put together properly, you'll have a great motor.

Posted

My tendency is to go overboard when building a motor.

 

I was thinking about new pistons, but trying to keep him from spending that $250.

 

Yeah, I forgot about the oil pump. I mentioned it to him, but forgot to list it.

 

I haven't seen the distributor, the motor was on a crate when I saw it. I haven't been under the hood of the truck yet.

 

Good idea on the heads, I think he may go for a valve job depending on the block machining costs.

 

Below are guesstimated prices, any ideas of where to spend more/less money?

 

All bearing surfaces - $150

Full gasket/seal kit - $100

Have crank journals polished - $ 50

Magnaflux block - $ 50

New cam/lifter/valvespring kit - $150

New piston rings - $ 45

New Wrist pins - $ 50

Get rid of fuel injection

get 600cfm carb - $200

aluminum intake - $100

Oil Pump - $ 50

 

 

Total of $950 without pistons or headwork!

Posted

Does anyone know if '91 z28 heads will fit an '87 Blazer block? Both are 350 SBC, both have iron heads.

 

Would a special intake be required?

Posted

I haven't visited the board lately to see your question.

 

91' TPI heads will bolt up to an 87' 350 block. The chamber volumes are obviously a lot smaller on the TPI heads, and you might have to modify the intake manifold runners to match the TPI heads. All the mounting holes and exhaust ports will match up fine.

 

As an idea if you want to gain a little power, you might throw on a set of Vortec heads with a Vortec/Carb intake.

 

As far as pricing goes, on a project like this, I always take the price I expect to pay, and double it. Every major project seems to have its setbacks and unexpected problems. Your pricing sounds pretty low. I imagine you'll spend quite a bit more than your guessing. Something closer to $1500 to complete your list.

 

Also you might want to run a 650 carb. Getting a decent carb for $200 is going to be hard too.

 

Good luck with the project!

Posted

My neighbor (owner of the motor) was hopeing to do the "minimum" or pretty close.

 

My response was that it would be a wast of time to put a gasket set on a 80k mile 350. At the very least new bearings, oil pump and lifters. Along with some machine work.

 

The reason for the carb is the truck came with an Fuel Inj. 305. I can't imagine the computer working on a 350. He may even consider a 2 bbl.

Posted

Actually, if the motor is running great, with only 80k on it, I bet replacing the gaskets will allow it to keep on going for a long time. TBI 350's are really good motors from the factory, and if taken care of can last 200k+ without a rebuild. If the motor ran great when he pulled it, I wouldn't tear it apart unless it leaks or you want to build it up. The stock bearings and seals should be fine at 80k. Even the timing chain

 

I've got 117k on mine now and put 95k on my previous one. Both run excellent. I've got a few friends with some high miles on some too. 235k on one, all stock. 197k on another, all stock. 187k on another. None have had any major problems. I actually don't know anyone who has had major problems with a TBI 350. I popped a head gasket a few months back on my current motor, but thats related to the fact that I put aluminum heads on it and copper racing head gaskets.

 

A TBI 305 intake and throttle body system is exactly the same as a TBI 350 one, with the exceptions being, the injectors are larger in the 350 throttle body, and the computer calibrations are different. You could install injectors and a chip from a TBI 350, and it would run great.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...