Dome light wire ?

[PalomaresC]

Ok so my power cord to is is ran from the engine area on the drivers side. The negative is grounded to the firewall as seen in the picture with the relay. The power is in the fuse box in there as well. It's the orange wire with a fuse connected to the positive wire. In the last picture you can see it fits with the fuse box on the drivers side. The negative is grounded there in picture 3. The positive is wired to the dome light in the picture I posted earlier. It was a pain but I got it and it works great! I have to led strips in my grill but I plan on adding the other two later. I hope this helps!

 

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I tapped into this grey wire and it doesn't work when i open the door , I'm using this as my secondary power source for only when the door opens and my primary is a constant hot I tapped into. I've re crimped it atleast 5 times and now I'm not sure what else to do.

 

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[amused2deth]

I tapped into this grey wire and it doesn't work when i open the door , I'm using this as my secondary power source for only when the door opens and my primary is a constant hot I tapped into. I've re crimped it atleast 5 times and now I'm not sure what else to do.

 

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I tapped into this gray wire and it works great!

 

 

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[Yordany]

On 6/17/2017 at 9:42 PM, pgamboa said:

Here's a pic of the BCM. The far left grey connector. The bottom right corner grey wire is the dome lamp circuit. It's Pin # 1.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

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What year is the truck 

I'm preparing to do this on my 2017 ltz 

[pgamboa]

What year is the truck 
I'm preparing to do this on my 2017 ltz 

2016. But it has been same for 2014 - 2017


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[Smoothbassman]

Anyone figure this out on the 2019 yet? Looks like they changed a few things for the T1.

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[MidnightMedic90]

I have tapped into the gray wire that is shown for my OPT7 Aura Kit. My issue is getting the progressive dim to work correctly. Currently, I get a downgrading flicker not a smooth dim like the existing dome lights. I have heard of using a filter, relays, resistors, and capacitors but not sure what they are to get the right part and where they go in the circuit.

 

[BrennanK]

I believe the gray wire for the courtesy lamps (X61A, X3, pin 29) which I have un-pined and re-crimped with a piggy back wire is a PWM signal. I didn't realize it was a fading/PWM signal. My old 2005 which I came from was not, so I just swapped accessories over to my new truck without thinking much. The electromechanical relay I am using (Bosch style) doesn't really like the PWM signal. It chatters really badly until the voltage reaches a high enough duty cycle where it finally will seal in. It is the same when turning the lights off where it will chatter until the voltage is no longer present. 

 

It seems like most people just drive their additional lights directly off that gray BCM wire without a relay, but I have some higher power lights which require the use of some sort of relay. I am hoping there is a specific relay or device I can use to 'filter' the PWM signal to my existing relay. I can't imagine that the PWM signal is very good for an electromechanical relay long term. The relay is also located under the hood with the rest of my accessory fuses and wiring, so it needs to be able to withstand that environment.  

 

I was thinking of maybe adding a diode and a capacitor in series with pin 86 on my relay, but I just don't know what size to use or anything like that. I am a little out of my element on this one. 

 

Maybe someone better with wiring skills than me can assist (@pgamboa).