Jump to content

Dome light wire ?

PalomaresC
 Share

Recommended Posts

PalomaresC Enthusiast

PalomaresC

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so my power cord to is is ran from the engine area on the drivers side. The negative is grounded to the firewall as seen in the picture with the relay. The power is in the fuse box in there as well. It's the orange wire with a fuse connected to the positive wire. In the last picture you can see it fits with the fuse box on the drivers side. The negative is grounded there in picture 3. The positive is wired to the dome light in the picture I posted earlier. It was a pain but I got it and it works great! I have to led strips in my grill but I plan on adding the other two later. I hope this helps!7c49d9a45267e78aa9135eb8319faf2d.jpga07af7ebc6448b5180c933260e310a93.jpg9d6f9287f60eeca867be5bb2c4c48ecf.jpg5753ced54ecc0f6afee505126544764b.jpgeddc1dd1e29d21e081898de795f2142b.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

I tapped into this grey wire and it doesn't work when i open the door , I'm using this as my secondary power source for only when the door opens and my primary is a constant hot I tapped into. I've re crimped it atleast 5 times and now I'm not sure what else to do. 2343f252ef86daefcf8bdbd5fab48fae.jpg

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

amused2deth Enthusiast

amused2deth

Posted
Posted

I tapped into this grey wire and it doesn't work when i open the door , I'm using this as my secondary power source for only when the door opens and my primary is a constant hot I tapped into. I've re crimped it atleast 5 times and now I'm not sure what else to do. 2343f252ef86daefcf8bdbd5fab48fae.jpg

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

I tapped into this gray wire and it works great!

 

481e18212104f4179906f004b62a0c2d.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

  • 4 months later...
Yordany Enthusiast

Yordany

Posted
Posted
On 6/17/2017 at 9:42 PM, pgamboa said:

Here's a pic of the BCM. The far left grey connector. The bottom right corner grey wire is the dome lamp circuit. It's Pin # 1.

 

Hope this helps.

 

72b7b10e2a6f07c17fbbfa6d07c476ed.jpg

 

0e03f6494d563b2db27da91b037ed94b.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What year is the truck 

I'm preparing to do this on my 2017 ltz 

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
What year is the truck 
I'm preparing to do this on my 2017 ltz 

2016. But it has been same for 2014 - 2017


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
MidnightMedic90 New Member

MidnightMedic90

Posted
Posted

I have tapped into the gray wire that is shown for my OPT7 Aura Kit. My issue is getting the progressive dim to work correctly. Currently, I get a downgrading flicker not a smooth dim like the existing dome lights. I have heard of using a filter, relays, resistors, and capacitors but not sure what they are to get the right part and where they go in the circuit.

 

  • 4 months later...
BrennanK Enthusiast

BrennanK

Posted
Posted

I believe the gray wire for the courtesy lamps (X61A, X3, pin 29) which I have un-pined and re-crimped with a piggy back wire is a PWM signal. I didn't realize it was a fading/PWM signal. My old 2005 which I came from was not, so I just swapped accessories over to my new truck without thinking much. The electromechanical relay I am using (Bosch style) doesn't really like the PWM signal. It chatters really badly until the voltage reaches a high enough duty cycle where it finally will seal in. It is the same when turning the lights off where it will chatter until the voltage is no longer present. 

 

It seems like most people just drive their additional lights directly off that gray BCM wire without a relay, but I have some higher power lights which require the use of some sort of relay. I am hoping there is a specific relay or device I can use to 'filter' the PWM signal to my existing relay. I can't imagine that the PWM signal is very good for an electromechanical relay long term. The relay is also located under the hood with the rest of my accessory fuses and wiring, so it needs to be able to withstand that environment.  

 

I was thinking of maybe adding a diode and a capacitor in series with pin 86 on my relay, but I just don't know what size to use or anything like that. I am a little out of my element on this one. 

 

Maybe someone better with wiring skills than me can assist (@pgamboa).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...