Maintenance Questions

rcgolfer · July 11, 2003

2001 Yukon. 5.3L Engine. 60K miles (I'm putting 'em on fast, this truck is a real pleasure to drive). Running fine. I plan to keep about another 100K miles.

There doesn't seem to be any periodic service for me to perform, other than oil, filter, lube, oil, filter, lube, oil, filter, lube... This ain't natural, this is some sorta perverted maintenance schedule. Aren't I supposed to do SOMEthing other than just drive the damned thing?

The book says 100K before changing spark plugs. I heard someplace that the threads can seize by then so that you can't get them out, so get 'em out sooner.

Question 1: Do you recommend that I change now or leave until 100K?

Question 2: If I should change now, can you recommend a source that gives me the correct procedure? I have changed a lot of spark plugs, but getting to the back ones here look interesting, and I don't know for sure what to do with the electrical connections. A diagram would be worth a thousand words, but a thousand words would be better than just giving things a yank. Anything would be appreciated if you think I should be replacing them.

Tranny fluid. Book says 100K for normal service, which fits my use. I hate to wait that long for service, it just doesn't seem right. (I'll tell you what, though. I've gotta a '98 BMW and it says you never ever should change the tranny fluid, and I like 100K a lot better than never.) I see the pan has a drain plug. It would be easy to leave the pan in place, drain out what will come out, measure it, and replace with same amount of new, then get full service at 100K.

Question 3: Is this a reasonable plan of attack, or do you recommend a different approach, or should I just leave well enough alone?

Air cleaner. I leased a new '98 Tahoe and kept waiting for that little air cleaner indicator to say it was time to replace. Never happened. 50K miles came and went, the vehicle came and went, and when it went it went with the original air cleaner. Now 60K miles on this one, and ditto.

Question 4: Is it possible to have two faulty "replace air cleaner" indicators in a row, or is this the way it happens?

Thanks in advance, folks.

z wanabe · July 11, 2003

I'm in a similar situation as you are. Got 62K on my '01 ExCab Siverado w/ the 5.3L.

I'v only done 2 major maintenence items: Trany flush and filter change at 57K and a radiator coolant system flush and fluid change at 61K.

I'm getting ready to change the front break pads in the next couple of weeks and want to change the rear diff. fluid in the near future.

I will probably let the plugs go another 20K or so and the wires to 100K.

I have the same problem you do with the air cleaner indicator never moving. The thing just never changes so I put a new one in at 30K and will probably change it out again when I do the front breaks.

The front end has been greased twice, but I'm pretty sure after reading here that I missed some grease fitting.

Over all I really haven't done that much maitenance besides oil and filter changes

I am extreemly pleased with this truck to say the least.

Can't wait to see what others have to say.

rcgolfer · July 12, 2003

Hi Z Wanabe,

I don't know about grease fitting posts, as I can never get the search features to find what I want on these boards. For the first year, I got free lube/oil change service from the dealer. After that, I started to do my own. First thing I found out is that there was one fitting that could not possibly have ever been greased becaue I had to replace the Zerk with a 90 degree fitting to get the job done. Are you sure you don't want to grease your chassis more often than you are doing it?

I guess we aren't going to get tips on my questions, so I have been looking around and have found a generic maintenance schedule that I will probably go with except where it seems to be overkill. It is from the Minneapolis Star/Tribune. It was posted last year, so the Yukon must be a 2000 model. I found it by googling gmc yukon spark plug change, no quotes. It is tricky to get into the site, as you get in free on your first access, then if you go back you don't get access unless you "register", and while you are registering they assure you they aren't going to spam you, which means you are probably going to get spammed. I cleared out all my temporary internet files and went back in that way, rather than registering. Here it is:

Two years ago I bought a new GMC Yukon and a Buick Regal for my wife.

They both have about 25,000 miles on them and I need to start getting my maintenance up to date. I was reading through my owner's manual and noted that GM recommends oil changes at 7,500 miles, transmission flushes at 100,000 and cooling system flush at 150,000. I don't see anything about the services my GM dealer recommends, including brake fluid flushes, power steering system flush, oil flushes, serpentine belt, fuel injection service, fuel filter, tune-up, rear brake adjustment, alignments and tire balance/rotation, transfer case and differential service. I have read all your articles, and like you, believe in maintaining my vehicles. I plan to keep my vehicles for about six years and 100,000 to 120,000 miles, so I want to make sure they stay in top shape. Could you please write your recommendations for my vehicle so I know when the above maintenance should be done?

I can't provide a personalized maintenance schedule for your vehicles, but I can tell you what I do to my vehicles. But first, take a closer look at the owner's manuals for your two GM vehicles. Don't they recommend more frequent engine oil and transmission service when operated under "severe service" conditions? Typically, those conditions include lots of stop-and-go driving, frequent warm-up/cool-down cycles, extended idling, extreme ambient temperatures, and so forth. Sound familiar? It should -- it fits the driving conditions most of our vehicles experience here in Minnesota. So the first major step in deciding what maintenance is necessary, and when, is to follow the severe service maintenance recommendations.

With that said, let's go down your list.

• Engine oil and filter: Change every 3,000-4,000 miles.

• Chassis/steering/suspension inspection/lubrication: At each oil change, if vehicle is equipped with grease fittings.

• Transmission fluid and filter: Complete flush/fluid change every 30,000 miles. Filter change at first fluid change, then every other change.

• Cooling system flush and fill: Every 30,000 miles, regardless of type of antifreeze.

• Transfer case/differential/manual transmission: Change fluid every 30,000 miles.

• Spark plugs/tune-up/engine performance check: Standard plugs every 30,000 miles, platinum plugs every 60,000-75,000 miles. Install plugs with anti-seize on threads.

• Oxygen sensor: Follow carmaker's recommended interval, or every 75,000-100,000 miles.

• Air filter and PCV filter: Change once each year, more often if vehicle is operated on dirt roads.

• Fuel filter: Every 30,000 miles.

• Serpentine belt: Change when there are more than three cracks per inch across drive surface of belt, or at 75,000 miles.

• Radiator cap, thermostat and hoses: Change at every second or third cooling system service, which is 60,000-90,000 miles.

• Battery cables and connections: Disassemble and clean once per year.

• Windshield wipers: Install new refills once per year.

• Brake fluid: Bleed and flush every two years.

• Power steering system: Flush and fill every 50,000-60,000 miles.

• Engine oil flush: Never; frequent oil changes will keep engine clean.

• Fuel injection cleaning: Never, unless there's symptom of a fouled injector. Instead, add fuel system cleaner three or four times per year.

• Tire rotation: Every other oil change, 6,000-8,000 miles.

• Tire rebalance: Never, unless there's symptom of a problem.

• Alignment: Never, unless there's symptom of a problem.

• Rear brake adjustment (drum brakes only): Inspect and manually adjust at each tire rotation.

• Front disc brakes: Inspect at each tire rotation; replace as needed.

• Door/window rubber gaskets: Spray/wipe with silicone aerosol twice per year.

• Door/hood/trunk hinges/latches: Spray-lube twice per year.

• Air conditioning condenser/radiator: Clear debris from in front and between twice per year.

• Cabin air filter, if equipped: Replace once per year.

• Wash vehicle, including underside, wheelwells, bottom of doors: Twice per month in winter, often as possible summer.

Well, there you have it. This is my "Brand" of maintenance! Are some of the maintenance items or intervals overkill? Absolutely, but better safe than sorry. Have I forgotten or left out any that may pertain to your vehicle? Probably.

My maintenance schedule is the evolution of trying to own and operate vehicles for 100,000-150,000 miles in Minnesota. I've learned the hard way that skimping on maintenance tends to be more expensive in the long run.

And that's what we're all shooting for here: the long run. Consider my maintenance schedule as a guideline or suggestion. Remember, the single most important part of owning a motor vehicle is this axiom: You and you alone are responsible for every aspect of that vehicle.

Does my maintenance schedule "work"? All I can say is that in all those years I've never had major component failure from lack of maintenance, and I've had darn few failures of any kind.

To me, it's worth the extra cost and effort. But since it's your vehicle, you make the decision.

timk49 · July 13, 2003

Well said RCGolfer. I look at the manufacturers intervals as BS that makes their vehicle look less expensive to maintain. This may be a big seller to a large fleet operator. I think most fleet operators know better and go with shorter intervals.

sjspor · July 13, 2003

60K.. I'd change the Tranny Fluid and filter, i would'nt "flush" it. Let the new fluid blend with the old. Go ahead and change the spark plugs, lets see, 3 bucks each, X8, 24 dollars and an hour on a nice afternoon. Make sure you get some di-electric grease for the boots. A can of air helps too, blow out the hole the plug is in first, so when you take the plug out all the crap won;t go into the engine.

Air filter, Change it.. Why worry if the change sensor works or not, while your at it.. new fuel filter too.

Then in the fall.. do the rear end fluid and dump the anti freeze and replace that..buy 2 gallons of distilled water to mix with the new dex cool.

My truck has 42K on it, I;ve all ready done all those things except the anti freeze.

You will know it's done, and done right...

rcgolfer · July 13, 2003

Thanks for the input, guys.

Sjspor, the tranny change flush is controversial. Most people do the flush, I think. But I talked to the best independent tranny service shop owner in my area a couple of years ago about this, for another car of mine. He pointed to the flush machine in the corner of the shop and said he would flush mine if I wanted. But he told me that he never flushes his own vehicles. Rather, he just drops the pan, replaces the filter, and puts new fluid in. His view is that if you do it this way you will never, ever have a problem with debris breaking loose and depositing in the wrong place (think heart arteries and plaque breaking loose, not good).

Then I went to my mechanic, who is not a tranny specialist but has a flush unit, and he says flush is the way to go, that nothing will break loose because his flush unit doesn't exceed normal internal tranny pressures. Go figure.

I have decided to do the tranny fluid myself, and that means a drain job.

Differential. I have 2WD, and have not done any towing or hard driving. Still change it out this fall? Can I do this job myself with the normal assortment of tools?

z wanabe · July 13, 2003

That’s a pretty thorough list.

There are so many opinions on the trany you just have to find what works for you and stick with it. I did the flush myself. Disconneted the line from the trany cooler and pumped out the old as new was poured in (after the pan had been dropped and filter replaced)

You could probably hold off on the rear diff. if you don't do any towing or haulling. I tow my boat to lake as often as I can in the summers is the reason I want to change mine.

sjspor · July 14, 2003

Golfer.. I do tow with mine.. and I can be a "little" anal sometimes, plus my 2wd is a locking diff.. So I wanted to get the new additive in mine too. I'm of the school that if you change your tranny fluid and filter on a reg. basis, you should't have to flush it.

GM tells you a 100K change, bacause thats what users want, no maintence.

The rear fluid change is easy, pull the back cover off, catch the fluid.. (it stinks too) put a new gasket on, open the fill port with a 3/8 drive ratchet, and fill the fluid up. If you have a locker, there's an additive you can get from the dealer, and the fluid is synthic too.

Good Luck..

jhm · July 14, 2003

Just got my truck back Friday for the tranny problem, it would not shift into 4th until 65mph. They say the 2-4 band servo ring was leaking, I dont know what this means, neither did the service adviser. The mechanic was not there. Anyway, he tried to sell me on the 30k service for $399.00 plus tax. This seems steep for what they do. Then he said at least i should do the tranny flush and fuel injection cleaning. $155.00 for the flush and $115.00 for the injectors. This also seems high to me. Anyone have any experience having a dealer do these things? What bothered me about the flush is I asked if that included the filter and he said the filter didnt need changing. This means they dont drop the pan and clean the magnet and put in a new gasket. Seems like they are cutting corners. Any thoughts?

rcgolfer · July 14, 2003

Sjspor, my rear end is the one with positraction and traction control, so I guess that is a locker, so I am going to do the procedure you suggest. You are getting to be a lot of work!

Spark plugs. I spent a little time with them yesterday. I pulled on and it looks OK, but I am gonna follow your suggestion anyway. How do you do that one on the left side (looking at the engine), the one way in the back hiding behind the dipstick? These are funny boots, a real pain in the butt to try to remove, even with enough room to work. Is there some sort of tool I should be using?

seadoons · July 14, 2003

When I decided to get my transmission serviced at 30,000 miles, my tech told me to do the flush. When I questioned weather or not the filter had been changed, he said to wait for 100k miles to come. My only concern was that the flush might have "unclogged" the filter by pushing all the crap out of it. He said it is impossible for that to happen, because the transmission pumps the old stuff out and sucks the new stuff in while the truck is running, meaning the pressure doesn't increase while doing the flush. Maybe at 60K ill drop the pan and change the filter and gasket, then at 90K just do the flush again. If you are really anal, you could drop the pan, change the filter and gasket, put the pan back on and fill it up, then do a full flush.

jhm · July 14, 2003

I think my present dealer is out for the quick buck, no surprise there. I just called 3 other dealers in my area, none said to do a fuel injection service unless there is a driveability issue. None said to do a tranny flush, they said if the fluid looks dirty, they would drop the pan, change the filter and fill it back up. Three against one, I think I will continue buying quality fuel, change the fuel filter every 30k, and do the tranny fluid at 60k or sooner if it looks like it's getting dirty.

WEFs99 · July 14, 2003

Jiffy Lube, individual dealers and oil company's push hard for you to change fluids before it's needed. The quality of lubes are so far superior and so many engine parts are so far advanced that early fluid changes are a waste of money. I agree that there may be a fudge factor in recommendations for sales advantage but when a manufacturer says 7500 miles he sure doesn't mean 3000 miles. Short commutes (less tan 15 miles) in the cold winter months is the only situation asking for a 3000 mile oil change. Heavy hauling isn't going to bother anything with good quality lubes and just what will be wrong with the oil after 7500k? Any moisture will be evaporated and unless you go mud diving without an oil cap how will any foreign particles enter the engine? These aren't like engines just 10 years ago.

BlackSilver · July 14, 2003

JHM ---

That guy was fixing to rip you off. For $115 he'd dump a $3.85 can of cleaner in your gas tank and call it "injector cleaning". If it makes you feel better, dump a couple cans of Sea Foam in your gas tank every six months or so.

jhm · July 14, 2003

I agree, they have this brochure with before and after pictures of valves. One shows a valve before they do the injector cleaning and it looks like something from an engine with serious blow by condition. Then the after picture shows a valve that looks like it just came from the machine shop. How a fuel injector cleaning accomplishes this would be nothing short of a miracle! I guess these guys gotta make their commisions. At this dealer the advisors never stay long. I think the management gives them the axe if they dont sell a certain amount of services people dont really need. I was surprised when the other three actually said those services were NOT required on a 30k engine!