98 blazer Questions

[Doug Rosewood]

So I bought a 98 blazer ls 4x4(4.3) as a beater to save some miles on the 2016. Its got some issues but nothing crazy major..appreciate any advice

 

1) drain plug drips after cooling down after driven..is this a common thing? I've never had a drain plug do this ever

 

2) the front lower portion of the block(under the fan) is coated in moist oil, nothing sprays out or pisses out its just coated everywhere(no visible sign of a leak)..any ideas?

 

3) lastly I have no idea what coolant is in this thing, could be dex cool could be the cheap stuff..i really don't want to flush the coolant out of this thing but I also don't want to turn the dex to fudge by mixing cheap stuff or dex into cheap stuff..is their another altnerative?

 

 

thanks

[Jsdirt]

#2 is one that should be addressed immediately - it's more than likely the remote oil filter lines that go from where the oil filter is normally, to up front near the radiator. Those lines are notorious for blowing out and frying many engines if left unchecked. Whatever you do, DO NOT replace them with DORMAN lines - I did, and they leaked in less than 1 year. There's a chance it could just be leaky transmission cooler lines too. You'll have to investigate which it is.

 

The drain plug probably just needs a new seal - most are plastic these days. If you can find a soft copper one, that's the way to go there. It could also be a stripped drain plug from trips to Jiffy Lube, et.al..

 

Those came with Dex from the factory - I'd dump it and refill with Prestone green & distilled water.

 

My '00 Jimmy had Dex in it too ....

 

[Doug Rosewood]

had it looked at by a shop...pitman and idler arm are slightly loose, timing chain cover is leaking and the hoses that feed the oil filter are also leaking lol....yay

[Jsdirt]

Par for the course. Mine needed all that and then some when I first got it.

 

That '00 Jimmy was the worst vehicle I have EVER owned. After 2 years of constant headaches, I parted it out. She's now become a decoration in my back yard.

 

I did use the engine, minus ALL electronics, in my '89 S10 Blazer. That one got us around for 7 years, and still was able to sell it for $1,800 after that. Put over 50k miles on that setup. Ran great with a carburetor and HEI ignition.

 

[Doug Rosewood]

Par for the course. Mine needed all that and then some when I first got it.

 

That '00 Jimmy was the worst vehicle I have EVER owned. After 2 years of constant headaches, I parted it out. She's now become a decoration in my back yard.

 

I did use the engine, minus ALL electronics, in my '89 S10 Blazer. That one got us around for 7 years, and still was able to sell it for $1,800 after that. Put over 50k miles on that setup. Ran great with a carburetor and HEI ignition.

 

here is the odd thing I guess, I've yet to had to add oil to it..its still reading above the operating level(guessing whoever changed the oil last put a full 5 quarts in it) the front of the block below the fan is saturated but its not really marking its territory. I keep an eye on the oil pressure and it gets as low as 20 psi at idle after being driven awhile and 40ish while actually moving...I'm just torn between putting money into it or just driving it til it fails, the steering is ok, the mechanic said they were just slightly loose not deadly..ah the joys of beaters

[Jsdirt]

You're lucky you live where you do. Here in MA, you have to get an inspection done 7 days after you put a vehicle on the road for the 1st time. They jack up the front end and check all of that - ball joints, tie rod ends, idler, pitman, bearings, etc.). Any play in ANYTHING up front, it will immediately fail, and you'd get a RED "R" sticker on the windshield - basically a cop magnet (revenue generator). Not supposed to be on the road with a red "R". A black "R" means you failed emissions - they at least give you 60 days for that. Shouldn't even be burdening people with those types (emission) of repairs, but I digress ...

 

All depends on the overall condition as to whether or not to fix it up. Anything can be fixed. Problem with those lines is, sometimes they just weep ... and other times they let go without warning. When they do that, you're stuck wherever it happens. Guys like us would notice the low oil pressure and kill it before it ruins anything expensive, but quite a few people keep on blissfully driving, and grenade the engine. Turns a perfectly good vehicle into scrap instantly, especially if they have to pay someone to install an engine.

 

A cheap option is to remove that whole assembly of lines, and cut the crimps off - then run to your local NAPA and get some hydraulic hose, and double, or triple clamp it to the aluminum lines. I've done that on a couple high-mile vehicles. Only thing with worm clamps is you need to remember to check them at every oil change. Really don't need to check that often, but it's a great habit to get into.

[Doug Rosewood]

So far, a buddy's replaced the hoses, pitman and idler arm..the timing chain gasket wasent even leaking it was a false diag. Went to get it aligned and the shop wouldn't touch it without putting in new lower ball joints..get to tackle that Sunday..any tips for a quick change out? I'm guessing the factory joints were replaced a long time ago so no rivets

[Doug Rosewood]

Just an update..oil issues are resolved, it was just the hoses..rebuilding the front end (ball joints, sway links)...152k and still had the factory balls joints..miracles do happen

[Jsdirt]

Wow - that's got to be a record for these trucks. Here in MA I never saw one go much over 80k before they were smoked. Our roads are worse than dirt ones ...

 

Glad you got it sorted out.

[KARNUT]

I had an 98 Two door Tahoe a few years ago paid 5K for it every thing worked and it had 130K miles on it. I slowly address the issue similar to yours put 30K miles on it sold it and got all my investment back. Wished I kept it for its uniqueness and reliability.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jsdirt]

The Tahoe was a much better built truck. The s-series trucks were cheapout central. All of mine from every generation loved to eat brakes and balljoints regularly, and all had the noisiest interiors I've ever heard ... aside from my '07 Silverado.

[KARNUT]

I had a brain fart and thought the the 2 door Tahoe replaced the blazer. I forgot about the s series trucks.

[Doug Rosewood]

Ended up putting sway link in it too..they were about ready to break. Went to get it aligned and was told driver side control arm won't move lol..told them I don't care if it has a slight pull, long as it doesn't chop tires...next up, trying to figure out if it has dex cool in it or not..lol joys of beaters

[Jsdirt]

I'd just dump the coolant, flush with distilled, and refill with Prestone green - that's what I do with all my new used vehicles. Eliminates alot of headaches down the road.

 

Those end links are common failure points too. The generations prior to yours had a craptastic design that used to rust through and leave the bar hanging down, under the control arms. Those were a joy to install, with the bar tension fighting you the whole way.

 

Got one busted on the plow truck now as a matter of fact.

 

20 years of New England road salt plus 3 years of plow duty, plus being parked over dirt for a while, really took it's toll on this one ...

 

[Doug Rosewood]

This thing had been rode hard and put away wet it's entire life. The suspension was so rusted and decayed that it took days of soaking just to be able to break loose the parts. All 4 boots on the balls were torn and smashed, sway links were crushed and hanging on by a thread. The CV axle splines were fused to the hubs via rust also. I haven't tryed 4x4 yet, I'm a little nervous that it won't disengage lol. The motor runs well though, an oddity though is sometimes when I start it, it kind of pops and lurches once the starter disengages