Jump to content

Aftermarket rear bumper


GRN69CHV

Recommended Posts

Posted

My truck got tagged in a parking lot, rear bumper, passenger side. I didn't even notice it until I went to open the tailgate and the tailgate didn't drop down all the way. Way it was hit, pushed the bottom of the 1/4 panel in just enough to close the tailgate/quarter panel gap at the very bottum. Bumper is bent with a nice dent in it. I can fix the body panel (pretty good with hammer and dolly) and shoot the paint as needed. Thinking about an aftermarket pumper though, something that it maybe a little more durable than the factory chrome bumper. Been very disappointed in how easy it has dented.

Posted

I went with a Ranch Hand bumper. Got it for under $600 shipped off eBay. Has the cutouts for the backup sensors and also remote backup/ work lights. Love it, and super heavy duty. Don't think I'll be bending this one

 

c215056ed1ec00e1dea6867d3e907875.jpg

Posted

That's a good looking bumper, a lot sleeker than mine. But since my truck is lifted I had to relocate my 7 way plug down to the skirt of the bumper. I actually used a 5th wheel t-harness so both plugs work

 

I actually really like their front bumper, may end up investing in one in the future

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

It's all in perspective. Truck will be paid off in January. 51,000 miles on it, has had it's share of issues though. This truck had lifter failure at 10,000 miles, hit broadside by a huge deer in 2016 required rear door replacement and driver side bed 1/4 panel replacement. Now this, makes you wonder, is it the owner or the vehicle! Mostly a daily driver, I do use it as a truck though. Don't haul rocks and such, but it does carry it's share of lumber and the like. Hesitant to put anything in the bed when new, now, it's another story. That's the nice thing of having your truck a few years down the road.

Posted

It's all in perspective. Truck will be paid off in January. 51,000 miles on it, has had it's share of issues though. This truck had lifter failure at 10,000 miles, hit broadside by a huge deer in 2016 required rear door replacement and driver side bed 1/4 panel replacement. Now this, makes you wonder, is it the owner or the vehicle! Mostly a daily driver, I do use it as a truck though. Don't haul rocks and such, but it does carry it's share of lumber and the like. Hesitant to put anything in the bed when new, now, it's another story. That's the nice thing of having your truck a few years down the road.

Around may of 2016 my truck was so close to being totaled out it's not even funny. Within a few grand of the insurance totaling it. It was around 23k in damages. Wish they would have so I could have gone up to a 2500 lol

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

i just installed a BR10 front and a BR20 rear bumper from GoRhino. I love them. The rear required that the bed be partially removed an lifted up to get the factory bracket out.

Posted

Decided on what route you're going to take?

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Think I'm going with the Go-Rhino BR20. Have not decided on the LED backup lights, probably easy enough to add after.

 

i just installed a BR10 front and a BR20 rear bumper from GoRhino. I love them. The rear required that the bed be partially removed an lifted up to get the factory bracket out.

 

Thanks for sharing. Few videos I saw, seemed this would be the way to go. I may paint it BC/CC, in addition to the corner of the gate hitting, there was a nice dent in the gate prior (like I said earlier, don't abuse it, but I use my truck as a truck). Probably will take the time to fix everything while it's apart.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...