Jump to content

Reese trailer brake dash installation

spd4n63691

By spd4n63691
in Towing, Hauling & Hitches

Recommended Posts

spd4n63691 New Member

spd4n63691

Posted
Posted

Greetings,

I recently purchased a 2015 Silverado Crew Cab which I intend to use for towing my pop-up camper.  My truck did not come with a factory trailer brake so I decided to permanently install an aftermarket brake sy stem (a Reese Brakeman unit) where the factory brake would go.  First I removed the dash panel. Then I cut out the back of the "coin tray" that GM put in place of the factory trailer brake to make room for the Reese unit to slide in.  I hard-wired the Reese unit to the trailer brake harness (which came with my truck), and ran the wiring behind the dash.  Reassembled the dash panel and I was good to go.  It isn't factory but it sits in a very convenient spot and it looks decent.  The whole job took me maybe 45 minutes.  One word of advice if you do the same, make sure you read the instructions for both the trailer brake unit you install and the wiring harness.  Each had exactly four wires; red, white, black, and blue, but the colors did NOT correspond to each other (guess how I found that out?).  Only after reading the instructions did I learn that the only matching color was blue.

Brake-2.JPG

Brake-3.JPG

Brake-5.JPG

Brake-7.JPG

Brake-8.JPG

Brake-9.JPG

Brake-10.JPG

Brake-11.JPG

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,859
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    needafix
    Newest Member
    needafix
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 590 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • OnTheReel
      Winter Returned

      By OnTheReel · Posted

      .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • tjonesdfw
      Shift to Park Message Warranty Claim

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • tjonesdfw
      2021 with Intermittent AC Cooling Issues

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • needafix
      Brake Bleed Procedure

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...