Buying a 20 year old truck...

[Imcrazy]

If you're keeping the 2014 you have just drive it and replace it more frequently... It will be cheaper in the long run than having an additional vehicle.... Cars are disposable items and age wears them out, mileage just wears out wear items like brakes and tires...

[rjpoog1989]

9 hours ago, Imcrazy said:

If you're keeping the 2014 you have just drive it and replace it more frequently... It will be cheaper in the long run than having an additional vehicle.... Cars are disposable items and age wears them out, mileage just wears out wear items like brakes and tires...

I’m selling/trading the 14.  I have a baby on the way and daycare is expensive.  I’m in very good shape with my loan on that truck.  I hope to get enough cash to pay off my DD plus buy an old beater truck.  

Also, finances being what they are and time being limited, my uses for a truck I’m sure will diminish.  I still need something to haul firewood though, and with free heat this truck will basically pay for itself after the first winter.

[Imcrazy]

10 hours ago, rjpoog1989 said:

I’m selling/trading the 14.  I have a baby on the way and daycare is expensive.  I’m in very good shape with my loan on that truck.  I hope to get enough cash to pay off my DD plus buy an old beater truck.  

Also, finances being what they are and time being limited, my uses for a truck I’m sure will diminish.  I still need something to haul firewood though, and with free heat this truck will basically pay for itself after the first winter.

AH okay that makes sense... My dad used to be in the same boat, had a nice newer car for my Mom to drive us around in and had a beater van/car for work... I'd look for something for sale by owner or at a new car dealer vs. the used car lot on the corner.

[rjpoog1989]

Went to see that truck this afternoon.  It’s a 97 with 145k miles and listed at $4995. It’s a 1 owner from eastern PA.  It’s in pretty good shape for being 20 years old. some body rust on rockers and cab corners, mechanicals seem ok. Seems to be leaking a bit of oil, rear main seal maybe? A/C doesn’t work and needs a blower motor resistor.  Otherwise runs and drives good.  3.42 gears which kinda stinks, seems reluctant to downshift though.

[east3021]

Understanding that rust is a given for you guys up north, I'd wager that the dealer paid maybe $1500 for it and did zero work on it other than a quick vacuum job.

Any idea if the lower intake gaskets are leaking? Any coolant in the oil? With that mileage, it's possible that it has never been done before, in which case they're likely leaking.

Try Craigslist and private party. You'd get a much better idea of how the truck was maintained.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rjpoog1989]

8 minutes ago, east3021 said:

Understanding that rust is a given for you guys up north, I'd wager that the dealer paid maybe $1500 for it and did zero work on it other than a quick vacuum job.

Any idea if the lower intake gaskets are leaking? Any coolant in the oil? With that mileage, it's possible that it has never been done before, in which case they're likely leaking.

Try Craigslist and private party. You'd get a much better idea of how the truck was maintained.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing really enticing on Craigslist, but a lot of stuff on Facebook marketplace.  I’m going to try and sell off my Sierra to get a better idea of what my budget really is.

 

i didn’t detect any coolant in the oil.  My biggest concerns are fuel and brake lines because I really have no experience dealing with those.  Sounds like they can be expensive to deal with.

[Logan Lanfear]

3 hours ago, rjpoog1989 said:

Nothing really enticing on Craigslist, but a lot of stuff on Facebook marketplace.  I’m going to try and sell off my Sierra to get a better idea of what my budget really is.

 

i didn’t detect any coolant in the oil.  My biggest concerns are fuel and brake lines because I really have no experience dealing with those.  Sounds like they can be expensive to deal with.

Fuel lines I believe are stainless.  Mine are great still and its been in salt for the past 20 years.  My brake lines however have been redone two times in the front and once in the rear.  Intake manifold gaskets are not as big of a deal as some people make.  You'll know if it goes and its relatively easy to fix if you have a weekend to do it.  

[Daly]

Yeah, I'd stay away from dealers with the age of truck you are looking for. I searched Kijij (Canadian Craigslist) for a few months before I stumbled across my 1991 C2500. I paid $900 for it and there isn't any rust, no leaks, even the suspension was original. The A/C doesn't work and the paint is shot, but it only needed a flasher to pass safety and it passed it's emissions test with ease. They are out there you just need to have patience and persistence. 

 

Now this pic is after I put a 4" spindle lift on it and new tires, but everything else is as bought. Except the tie rods, I had a hell of a time getting them out so I had to replace them. Ball joints, coils, and all other suspension components are factory original. Though the idler arm is getting some play now, after 235k km and 26years. 

[Imcrazy]

I'd run away from that truck very fast for 5k.... My dad bought an older 1997 Chevy truck for maybe $3k a few years back, put 2k into it and sold it for less than he paid and cut his losses... You gotta be ultra picky with a truck that old, lot's can go wrong and you wind up spending more than the truck is worth.... Maybe consider getting a mid size SUV and a 5x10 utility trailer instead, DD the SUV and use the trailer as needed for hauling your wood.... Nothing is free, yeah you can buy an older vehicle but, odds are it will cost you in the long run in up keep...