Rear Wheelbearing Locknut

ArizonaJDL · August 12, 2003

First I'd like to say thanks for a great forum, I'm new and have looked at several forums and this one is excellent.

I tried searching the forum and couldn't find an answer to my troubles, which probably means its not really any trouble, but I'm still going to ask.

I have a 98 C/3500 with the GM 14 bolt diff. and full float axel. My bearing seal is leaking and needs replaced. I seem to be having trouble finding the tool to remove the bearing locknut. It has the 6 notch pattern around the outside but the notches are curved toward the center of the nut. The loaner set I got from a local parts dealer wouldn't fit, and in doing a little research it seems the only tool I could find is made by OTC/SPX the number is OTC1929 which I can't find locally. I hesitate to believe that this is the only option available, and I must be looking in the wrong places. Any help on this?

Thanks Jeff

frdfandc · August 13, 2003

These lock-nuts are very similar from manufacturer to manufacturer (ford,dodge,gm). The only way I am able to get OTC tools is either thru the dealership I work at, or thru a tool man (Snap-on, Mac, Matco). I have removed this lock-nut in a Dana 60 in a E-350 with a blunt chisel (so it doesn't damage the lock-nut) and a hammer. This way takes some time, especially if someone He-manned the nut on, but it does work.

C/K Man · August 13, 2003

Sorry, the nut that G.M. uses is quite different than what Ford and Dodge use. And, G.M. uses their particular nut on both Dana 60's, 70's and Corporate 10.5" axles. The OTC 1929 (or Kent-Moore J-2222C) is the correct tool for this job, and is needed because although some very careful punch work may remove the wheel bearing nut, when you go to reinstall it the wheel bearings must be preloaded to 50 ft. lbs. on some axles before final adjustment of the rear wheel bearings is made.

ArizonaJDL · August 13, 2003

C/K Man, Thank you so much for the info. Yours is the first straight answer I've heard. I've been to all the usual suppliers for us DIY'ers, you know, Checker, Carquest, NAPA, Auto-Zone, etc. most tried to tell me that their supplied 6-point tool would work, which I knew it wouldn't because I used the loaner set from one, and all the others are exactly the same. I've also heard the "hammer and chisel" approach from several. I for one am a strict believer in procedure, and manufacturers give torque specifications for a reason. IE. I hope no one would install an aluminum intake without following pattern and torque, so why skimp on the rest of a loved vehicle you've sweated over and spent hard earned $ on. Kind of leads me to wonder how many trucks out there are wandering around with an improper thrust adjustment on their wheel bearings (my guess would be too high, as overtightning is more common) I investigated SPX further and found they are the parent company of many specialty type tools, including OTC, Kent-Moore, Miller, and Robinair to name a few. A good quote I found from one site hosted by a 'Vette repair shop, (thats Cor-'Vette, not Che-'Vette) said, "I keep the Kent-Moore cataloq right next to my Corvette repair manuals"

Guess I'm ordering the tool, OTC sells to many suppliers, just none locally, but there are many on line.

Thanks again, and happy Truckin'

Jeff

CC2500HD · August 13, 2003

Jeff,

You might want to try The Tool Warehouse

They handle most OTC tools and have good pricing & fast shipping.

Joe

C/K Man · August 13, 2003

Glad to help out. The right tool makes this job a snap. Just be sure to check the manual for the proper adjustment procedure. Off the top of my head, I think you torque the nut down to 50 ft. lbs., then back it off one key slot.