Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 11/21/2018 at 1:24 PM, Crazyjoker77 said:

No that is the fuse panel on the drivers side dash that you access by removing the end cover with the door open.  Theoretically that spade should be able to support up to 50A.  Its actually designed so that you can move that 50A cartridge fuse over and it switches the always on 12v power outlets to be RPO instead.  That being said you should size the fuse based on the size of wire its protecting, so don't go throwing a 50A fuse in their with some 20g wire.

 

There are no RPO spots at all in the passenger side panel.  There are some in the under hood panel but I don't recall offhand which ones they are but all required a add-a-fuse and no convenient spade like the drivers side door.  As well the wire coming out of the hood fuse panel will interfere with the lid closing and will compromise its seal.

How did you get your wire to the left side fuse panel? I would like to use that 50 amp spade connector that’s there but I couldn’t find where to access it from under the hood.

Posted
11 minutes ago, '17 Sierra said:

How did you get your wire to the left side fuse panel? I would like to use that 50 amp spade connector that’s there but I couldn’t find where to access it from under the hood.

 

I went through the boot that the factory harness uses.  I just used a short piece of coat hanger and taped the cable to the end of it and pushed it in from the engine bay alongside the factory harness.  Had to remove some electrical tape.  I spent probably a good 20minutes trying to grab the coat hanger from the inside as it comes out right beside the big black junction box by the pedals.  I eventually got fed up and just removed the 3bolts holding the junction box in and had the job done in 2 min.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Once you have everything installed and complete, can you report back as to how the Air Lift bags ride loaded and unloaded?
I just purchased the Timbren load supports for my Denali with Magnetic Ride, but I think I want to cancel the order and get Air Lift system. I know my biggest challenge will be repositioning the actuating arms so the
Magride functions properly. I haven’t found much info regarding ride quality while the truck is unloaded, which is my biggest concern. What little I did find are mixed reviews.
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
On 11/25/2018 at 5:59 AM, Horacio said:

Once you have everything installed and complete, can you report back as to how the Air Lift bags ride loaded and unloaded?
I just purchased the Timbren load supports for my Denali with Magnetic Ride, but I think I want to cancel the order and get Air Lift system. I know my biggest challenge will be repositioning the actuating arms so the
Magride functions properly. I haven’t found much info regarding ride quality while the truck is unloaded, which is my biggest concern. What little I did find are mixed reviews.
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really like it so far but I haven’t had the Harley loaded yet. No doubt it’ll work out well. There’s a minimum of 5 psi that you’re supposed to run and with 5 psi, it does raise the back about 3/4”. It is a bit firmer than stock with that too but I actually like the ride with 15 psi. I’m so use to 3/4 ton trucks so I guess I feel the stock ride of the 1/2 ton is kind of soft. It’s nice to be able to control the pressure on the fly too. When I load the bike, I’ll let all the air out to keep the back as low as I can then probably will go 30-50 psi is my guess.i researched the crap out of all the brands and Air Lift is the choice. Great quality too. I highly recommend the Ultimate also as it has the jounce bumpers built in so if you bottom out over a bump, you’re protected. Ultimate Plus has steel braided lines.

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 11/24/2018 at 12:14 PM, '17 Sierra said:

How did you get your wire to the left side fuse panel? I would like to use that 50 amp spade connector that’s there but I couldn’t find where to access it from under the hood.

I’m In same boat with airlift. I installed it. I left old the ignition line at first. I could hook to same one as my sub amp I installed but would prefer to go to the location you described. Just so I’m clear, where you’re saying I need to use the appropriate size fuse and not a 50, you’re not saying I need to do anything with the 50 that’s in there. I just need to make sure when I connect to the exposed male end in the pic next to the 50 that I’m doing it with a female connected to an inline fuse with the appropriate amperage for the airlift ignition line (I’ll check but I’m sure it 5-10).  When I say online I’m talking about one like this picture I’m including. Forgive me for being slow on this. I installed  the airlift, I have sound deadened the whole truck, I have been installing stereos in my trucks for 15 years but sometimes I don’t trust myself when it comes to the fuse boxes. Especially on these new trucks. 

C3FBA345-7820-4152-BADF-0E6588AEFEF0.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...