Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all, I was hoping for some help troubleshooting some noises coming from my 2008 Avalanche 5.3L 4x4 with 160K miles.  When the truck is in motion, starting at about 20 mph, I begin hearing a low whine/hum that gets higher pitched as speed (not RPMs) increases, although I can’t say it gets too much louder with speed.  The sound is similar to bad tire/pavement noise, but pretty sure it’s not that.  No grinding noises (yet), just whining, and does not get so high-pitched that I would can it squealing.  It seems to have gotten more noticeable since it started a few weeks ago.

 

I want to say it’s coming from the front, but its so hard to say for sure the way sounds travel in the car.  Its most noticeable when accelerating and under load, and does tail off when taking the foot off the gas (or putting it into neutral), but doesn’t go away immediately or completely.  The “interesting” thing is that when I put it into 4WDH, the sound seems to get a little louder and consistent, and no longer tails off when decelerating.  The sound also doesn’t change when turning the wheel.   

 

I had a transmission rebuild last August, and there is only 15,000 miles on the truck since then.  The tranny fluid looks fine, although it may be a little high.  Both front wheel bearings were replaced 2-3 yrs ago, and the rear differential bearings were all replaced 3 yrs ago.  I have also been experiencing an occasional clunk when changing drive/reverse and sometimes during low speed gear changes which I was attributing to the slip yoke, but maybe its related.

 

The fact that the sound is a little worse and more consistent when 4WD is engaged makes me think it’s in the front end, but I don’t think its wheel bearings again since they were recently replaced and turning the car doesn’t change the noise.  I would also be surprised if it’s the tranny since it was recent rebuilt.  Maybe front CV joints, transfer case, front differential?  

 

Thanks in advance!

Posted

So I did some additional troubleshooting:
 
I checked and changed the fluids in the front diff, transfer case, and rear diff.  All looked generally OK.  The front and rear differentials were a little low by maybe 1/2-3/4 qt, transfer case was just about full.   All have some gunk and very fine metal on the magnet plug, but nothing out of the ordinary and no metal flakes or shards were seen in the old fluid.  No change to the humming/whining sound in the subsequent test drive.  

 

I put the rear end up on stands to run it in 2WD while listening under the car, but it didn't tell me much.  Without any real load and with Stabiltrak going nuts, I couldn't recreate the sound, at least not for any sustained period.  I suspect I would need to try with all 4 off the ground (and in 4WD), or at a garage with rollers, to make it useful. 

 

I also tinkered with gearing some more while driving, and this is what happens with the sound:

 

   - In 2WD the sound is definitely present during acceleration, but winds down if decelerating or put into neutral, although doesn't go away completely.

 

   - In Auto4WD, the sound acts the same as in 2WD as described above.

 

   - In 4WDHi, the sound is a bit louder and more consistent, and does not change much or go away when decelerating or put into neutral.  And when the truck drops below 10-15 mph, I almost hear a sandpaper like sound, not real loud, but noticeable, kind of like when brake pads are nearly worn.

 

The whirring/humming sound certainly sounds like a bearing about to go bad, but I don't see why it would be the wheel bearings again so soon after replacement, why they would be affected by the 2WD/4WD changes, or why the sound doesn't change when turning.  Because the sound is affected by 4WD (definitely worse than in 2WD or even Auto4WD), I suspect its a bearing in the front diff or transfer case.   So to try and narrow it down before I start tearing things down, what is and is not engaged with respect to the front differential and transfer case in each of these drive settings?    

 

Thanks!
  

  • 4 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

OK, so this is a 4 1/2  year old thread, but this might help someone else:

 

I have had possibly similar noises in my 2006 4WD Sierra truck.  One day I noticed, while driving on the highway at 60 MPH that the truck was in 4WD.  I slowed down and shifted it into 2WD, and then noticed the noise.  I had a local shop go through it and the first time they didn't find anything, so I had them replace the rear wheel bearings and I replaced the front hubs and the CV joints/shaft myself .  None of this made any difference. 

 

I had them look at it again, and the noise was maybe a little worse in 4WD than 2WD, but not much.  Long story short, it turned out the transfer case output shaft bearing had come apart.  It's a ball-bearing type with a cage that supports the balls, keeping them spaced apart.  That cage is stamped sheet metal and it had broken in two, and was rubbing inside the bearing races.  MOST of the noise has disappeared, but it comes back now and then, so I'm just waiting for something to either seize up or fall off, then I'll know what it WAS.

Edited by 06pirate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sir, economics doesn't have a moral compass. 😉 Just say'n. 
    • One would think. BUT....This is what a Google search gives for the GM OLM system:    It doesn't measure oil condition save the highly indirect water temperature. It should measure oil temperature and as we've discussed they are not as closely related as one might assume. The algorithm is based on expected conditions at the end of a certain number of miles or revolutions. And sirs, this estimated value is not tilted in the engines favor. It favors the OEM's bottom line. There are no magical number of miles nor revolutions. No magical time limit. There is only what can be measured directly and only in the broadest of terms would the values used even come close to reality.    It samples nothing. It has no idea where the oil started or where it will finish given the limited values use to create the algorithm. It is just a reminder for the brain dead to do something at some time to keep the warranty in tact. Pure fiction.    Key Factors in Oil Life Calculation The OLM calculates the remaining oil life percentage based on the following factors: Factor Description Engine Revolutions Tracks the number of engine revolutions since the last reset, decreasing oil life with use. Mileage Since Last Reset Monitors the distance driven since the last oil change, capped at 7,500 miles for most models. Time Since Reset Decreases oil life over time, dropping to 0% after one year, regardless of mileage. Engine Temperature Adjusts oil life based on coolant temperature; exceeding 260°F sets oil life to 0%.  
    • Towing power and I guess MPG matter that’s why I may end up going with a gear swap as soon as they’re available for this truck if I’m correct
    • If I may, I'd like to post my prediction of the trim levels for the 2027 GMC Sierra, based on what was released/introduced today about the Chevy Silverado.   Using the "Professional Grade" wording already in use by GMC, here are the eight (8) trims I believe the Sierra will offer (comparable Chevy trim in parenthesis): Sierra Pro (Work Truck/WT) Elevation (Custom) Elevation Premium -or- Ultimate (Silverado) AT4 (Custom Trail Boss) AT4 Premium -or- Ultimate (Trail Boss) AT4X (ZR2) Denali (High Country) Denali Ultimate (N/A) If GMC would rather simplify the trim levels, then I predict six (6) with package upgrades in parenthesis: Sierra Pro (with a Graphite package upgrade option) Elevation (with a Premium -or- Ultimate package upgrade) AT4 (with a Premium -or- Ultimate package upgrade) AT4X (with AEV and Ultimate packages upgrade) Denali Denali Ultimate  Let's see if I'm close.
    • I have to believe there are already a bunch of threads on this, but my searches didn't turn up much. While I like the ease of a plugin solution like the Carbyte, It appears it disables the AFM or DFM too, and is not configurable to only disable the auto stop/start. So, I'm looking at the Autostop Eliminator product. I like the idea of it better, but I'm concerned about the install and having to pull so many panels to get it installed. Mines a 2026 work truck, so from what I've read it's a less involved install, but having watched a couple install vid's, I'm still a little intimidated. Might need to buy some plastic trim tools to get it done without breaking or marring stuff. Any experience intalling in a WT greatly appreciated.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...