Jump to content

2017 GMC Sierra AC Quit working, Bolt loose.

99Mastercraft
 Share

Recommended Posts

99Mastercraft Enthusiast

99Mastercraft

Posted
Posted

2017 GMC Sierra All terrain. 61,500 miles

 

Dealer has replaced leaf springs, brake vacuum pump, water pump and belt...

 

Now driving the other day AC quit working, look under vehicle and refrigerant was every where.. I immediately noticed a bolt loose and it seems like it doesn’t want to tighten back up...

 

Anyone seen this issue? I am out of warranty. I wonder if GM will give me any assistance?

 

Could this have anything to do with them replacing the water pump?

 

any help is appreciated...

218963A3-1B01-4C39-8145-79E72C126140.jpeg

jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted

possible related to water pump. the bolts to the compressor have to come lose to remove that big bracket above the compressor cuz the water pump runs partly behind that

jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
 
  1. Engine Wiring Harness Bracket Bolt (2) @ Engine Coolant Manifold » Remove
  2. Engine Coolant Manifold Bolt (1) » Remove [7x]
  3. Engine Coolant Manifold (3) » Remove
  4. Engine Coolant Manifold Gasket (2) » Remove and DISCARD [2x]
  5. Transfer components as necessary.
Installation Procedure

Untitled1.png

99Mastercraft Enthusiast

99Mastercraft

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, jay webb said:

possible related to water pump. the bolts to the compressor have to come lose to remove that big bracket above the compressor cuz the water pump runs partly behind that

 

Looking at the schematic posted it doesn’t look like that, are you sure?

 

if the bolts for the compressor have to come lose and the compressor was loose wouldn’t the refrigerant leak out?

 

 

Edited by 99Mastercraft
jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, 99Mastercraft said:

 

Looking at the schematic posted it doesn’t look like that, are you sure?

 

if the bolts for the compressor have to come lose and the compressor was loose wouldn’t the refrigerant leak out?

 

 

yea im pretty sure, considering ive done it. i am a tech for a gmc dealership. you move the compressor. the bottom bolt /stud has to to come out to remove that bracket , the compressor attaches to that bracket . the water pump manifold runs behind the bracket. if you look at the picture you posted you see a big metal bracket that the compressor bolts to, the water pump manifold runs behind that. 

 

  1. Remove the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement.
  2. Reposition the air conditioning compressor from the mounted position. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Replacement.

1

Air Conditioning Tube Bracket Fastener

Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution.

Tighten

22 Y (16 lb ft)

2

Air Conditioning Tube Bracket

3

Generator Battery Control Wiring Harness Ground Cable Fastener

Tighten

45 Y (33 lb ft)

4

Generator Battery Control Wiring Harness Ground Cable

5

Generator Bracket Fastener

Tighten

58 Y (43 lb ft)

6

Generator Bracket

Untitled2.png

jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, 99Mastercraft said:

 

Looking at the schematic posted it doesn’t look like that, are you sure?

 

if the bolts for the compressor have to come lose and the compressor was loose wouldn’t the refrigerant leak out?

 

 

well if they loosen the lines to the compressor, the lines cracked/broke they broke due to compressor being loose and vibration . im nearly certain its related . i would take it back

99Mastercraft Enthusiast

99Mastercraft

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 minutes ago, jay webb said:

well if they loosen the lines to the compressor, the lines cracked/broke they broke due to compressor being loose and vibration . im nearly certain its related . i would take it back

 

Thank you a lot. I appreciate it. It’s going back Monday morning, I hope they don’t try to screw me.

jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, 99Mastercraft said:

 

Thank you a lot. I appreciate it. It’s going back Monday morning, I hope they don’t try to screw me.

i dont like encouraging this but sometimes being an ass and throwing a fit works. i wouldnt start off that way. explain what is going on, they will send it into the shop for a recheck the tech will look at it and determine what is going on. im near certain its related. and if you get something you dont like that feels like you are being bullshitted then go into dick mode. and worst case if its not related and considering you have had repairs there and what have you they can apply for gm asst /good will and see if you get help that way. 

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 9/7/2019 at 11:03 AM, 99Mastercraft said:

2017 GMC Sierra All terrain. 61,500 miles

 

Dealer has replaced leaf springs, brake vacuum pump, water pump and belt...

 

Now driving the other day AC quit working, look under vehicle and refrigerant was every where.. I immediately noticed a bolt loose and it seems like it doesn’t want to tighten back up...

 

Anyone seen this issue? I am out of warranty. I wonder if GM will give me any assistance?

 

Could this have anything to do with them replacing the water pump?

 

any help is appreciated...

218963A3-1B01-4C39-8145-79E72C126140.jpeg

Very Interesting?  My compressor seized about year ago...Had dealer install brand new one.  Just recently I noticed that my bolt the exact same one as yours had backed out too?  Although mine was even further backed out?  I took it back to Dealer who installed it and they did a investigation?  I didn't make a scene or go after anybody etc. because I wanted to know why/how a bolt could back out 4 inches.  The Dealer never gave me a hard time and took care of it 100%  I was told all parts were taken out and compared with new hardware etc?  GM database was scanned for any other known issues like this?  The original Tech still can't believe it?  They came up empty handed so I just took it as this must not have been fully torqued and only snugged up while other bolt was properly torqued and forgot to go back and finish torquing down etc. 

 

Maybe not?  This might be prone to walking itself out?  Maybe it needs threadlocker?  I don't know seems really fishy now that you post this?

Edited by mookdoc6
99Mastercraft Enthusiast

99Mastercraft

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I’m not sure, but they called me and said they replaced the compressor for no charge.

 

ive currently got them looking at why the driver rear door doesn’t always lock, they said it’s probably the rear door lock actuator and want $315+ tax.. that’s insane

jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, 99Mastercraft said:

I’m not sure, but they called me and said they replaced the compressor for no charge.

 

ive currently got them looking at why the driver rear door doesn’t always lock, they said it’s probably the rear door lock actuator and want $315+ tax.. that’s insane

its sounds like a lot. but break it down in parts + labor. how much is the part? how much is labor? what is the shops labor rate? if the part is $175 and labor is 1.5 hrs ( rough guess ) shop rate ( $150 an hour) 

175+225=$400 

now heres the kicker the tech that does that job gets 1.5 hours at their hourly rate ( $25 per hour , average pay ) so they make $40 on their labor. 

99Mastercraft Enthusiast

99Mastercraft

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 9/11/2019 at 11:02 PM, jay webb said:

its sounds like a lot. but break it down in parts + labor. how much is the part? how much is labor? what is the shops labor rate? if the part is $175 and labor is 1.5 hrs ( rough guess ) shop rate ( $150 an hour) 

175+225=$400 

now heres the kicker the tech that does that job gets 1.5 hours at their hourly rate ( $25 per hour , average pay ) so they make $40 on their labor. 

 

Update..

 

GM applied good will and replaced the drier rear door lock actuator.. I ended up paying $135 total. Does the tech still get paid when that happens? I hope so...

 

So Friday they called me and said the truck was fixed.. I had to send my dad to get it... gets it home, NO AC, blowing hot heat. 

 

The ticket said the AC Compressor broke from the back side?

 

I immediately took the truck back... using a light they detected the lines or a line was cracked... had to leave the truck and they said they would fix it... very frustrating, but they gave me a loaner.

 

i just hope they take their time and actually get it fixed correctly.

jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, 99Mastercraft said:

 

Update..

 

GM applied good will and replaced the drier rear door lock actuator.. I ended up paying $135 total. Does the tech still get paid when that happens? I hope so...

 

So Friday they called me and said the truck was fixed.. I had to send my dad to get it... gets it home, NO AC, blowing hot heat. 

 

The ticket said the AC Compressor broke from the back side?

 

I immediately took the truck back... using a light they detected the lines or a line was cracked... had to leave the truck and they said they would fix it... very frustrating, but they gave me a loaner.

 

i just hope they take their time and actually get it fixed correctly.

the lines attach to the side/back of the compressor , if and when the took it lose to remove the bracket and water pump the line could of got damaged. the tech will get paid for the non come back repair. 

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,622 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      Replacing 2.7L on 2021 Silverado with 2023 2.7L

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Rattle in the rear!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I have 2 choices. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...