Jump to content

15002 BELLTECH COILOVERS INSTALLED

WHITESSTOWPIG

Recommended Posts

WHITESSTOWPIG Enthusiast

WHITESSTOWPIG

Posted
Posted

Have read a few guys mentioned these but no definitive feedback on them.I installed them to replace a stock assembly with a 3" drop coil spacer installed hoping to improve the ride on a RCSB.The stock assembly with the drop coil spacer was very,very stiff but handled incredible.According to instructions if you adjusting the coilovers  anything over 154mm ( 3" drop setting ) ride quality will begin to diminish.After adjusting them to the max recommend 3" setting I really only got 2" - 2.5" drop out of it so far.I have not adjusted further because I am giving time for the suspension to settle some more and really want to keep as good of a ride as possible.Meanwhile here are some slight negatives to consider if you are looking at these

 

- They are $630+ ( $530 with promo on Summit)

- Over 3" of drop adjustment ride quality suffers

- Wheels have to be off ground to adjust coil height

 

Aside from the negatives the ride was better and the handling was still very good but overall I think money would be better spent splitting the difference on a set of $100 Belltech drop struts that retain the stock coil springs.For the money I cant see how you could go wrong with that route.Anyway hopefully this info helps someone in the market

thumbnail_privatevarmobileContainersSharedAppGroup7C6DB809-E781-4F06-9706-FE4A53DF5966LibraryCachesAttachment-UploadsImage-1.jpg

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

I don't understand. Why is the small coil all bound up. Other then a "performance" spring and matching dampers what is the sale point of this. I have belltwech struts with the collar rings. I can go up or down with it 3+ or 3-.
I would be interest in it even thought coil overs in the front are a nightmare for me.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

WHITESSTOWPIG Enthusiast

WHITESSTOWPIG

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I don't understand. Why is the small coil all bound up. Other then a "performance" spring and matching dampers what is the sale point of this. I have belltwech struts with the collar rings. I can go up or down with it 3+ or 3-.
I would be interest in it even thought coil overs in the front are a nightmare for me.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

When you lower a truck with only struts they unwind the stock spring 3" so the suspension travel becomes very short and stiff.They make the drop struts real soft to try and counter this but moving a spring location 3" up or 3" down on the same strut is going to change its effectiveness.The idea with a coilover is to incorporate a much shorter softer spring for the suspension to behave like OEM.The second coil underneath the mail spring is there so when you unwind the main spring to adjust the height the the lower spring adjusts with it so the overall spring rate remains the same.Essentially the advantage is you can adjust the height of your truck 1mm at a time all the way up to 3" of drop while keeping the suspension behavior exactly the same.I like them and would recommend them to someone who is into sporty handling or who wants to fine tune there height perfectly but they are not good value for money for the average joe

  • 7 months later...
jeff mctaggart New Member

jeff mctaggart

Posted
Posted

So these coilovers arent any stiffer? I am looking for stiff springs in the front. My truck (rclb) dives in the corners and when hitting a hump or dip in the road the front end bounces and jams my tires into the wheel well. It sucks!! When i talked to bellteck just now they said these are far more stiffer than oem. Just wonderin if they are yankin my chain. Thanks

20200514_152710.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,533 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • anthony2558
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By anthony2558 · Posted

      Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...