Jump to content

Front Suspension Torque Specs for Bilstein 5100 install


5.3Avalanche

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

 

I installed a set of front Bilstein 5100 shocks on my 2017 1500 Silverado truck, and I was wondering if anyone is able to provide the OEM torque required for the top, centre nut which is on the shock absorber rod.  I’m getting some squeaking right now on the rubber shock assembly bushing so it’s either too loose or too tight and is causing it to creak when the shock moves around while driving.
 

I tried searching this site and there seems to be conflicting information regarding this torque.  I found 19 ft-lbs on one thread and 59 ft-lbs on another. 

 

Thanks in advance.

Posted

Iirc its like 19 or 37, but you need to reuse the factory nut not the one that comes in the kit.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted
27 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Iirc its like 19 or 37, but you need to reuse the factory nut not the one that comes in the kit.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk
 

Thanks.  According to this thread for the GMT900 trucks, the 3 shock tower nuts are 37 lb-ft and the shock nut is 59 lb-ft.  I’m assuming the GMT900 would be very similar if not identical to the 2017 K2?

 

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/122106-front-strut-torque-specs-asap/

Posted
Thanks.  According to this thread for the GMT900 trucks, the 3 shock tower nuts are 37 lb-ft and the shock nut is 59 lb-ft.  I’m assuming the GMT900 would be very similar if not identical to the 2017 K2?
 
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/122106-front-strut-torque-specs-asap/
Given your not gonna fit a socket over the nut to be able to get a torque set. Use the factory nut an adjustable wrench and an 18mm its not allot of torque required i can say from my years of wrenching it really doesnt feel like more then 25 and thats being honest. You do not want to attempt to grab the strut cylinder and damage it.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, Snowcamo said:

Given your not gonna fit a socket over the nut to be able to get a torque set. Use the factory nut an adjustable wrench and an 18mm its not allot of torque required i can say from my years of wrenching it really doesnt feel like more then 25 and thats being honest. You do not want to attempt to grab the strut cylinder and damage it.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk
 

I have a crows foot for my torque wrench and used with a vice grip on the top of the rod to hold it still while tightening.  If anyone has the GM spec from the service manual I would appreciate it.

Posted
I have a crows foot for my torque wrench and used with a vice grip on the top of the rod to hold it still while tightening.  If anyone has the GM spec from the service manual I would appreciate it.
Looking at alldata.com it doesnt show a spec for the center bolt. Just the outer 3 and lower 2.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted

Here ya go... e080e39371bf307d08e086515338205a.jpg

 

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

 

Google bilstien install mamual. Cardid second link that pops up has it listed same as i posted but ledgible

 

 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Here ya go... e080e39371bf307d08e086515338205a.jpg

 

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

 

Google bilstien install mamual. Cardid second link that pops up has it listed same as i posted but ledgible

 

 

Fantastic, thank you! Looks to say that item (1) is torqued to 19 lb-ft.  Appreciate the help guys.

Posted

So per GM, the OEM version of nut #1 on the Bilstein diagram has two different specs when using the factory struts. 

 

If the truck does not have Z85 (increased capacity) or Z95 (magride) its 37 ft.lbs. 

 

If the truck has Z85 (increased capacity) or Z95 (magride) its 55 ft.lbs.   

 

Here is the Bilstein install sheet however for the strut #24-238304:  https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/E4-WM5-Y458A00.pdf

 

They call for 19 ft.lbs with their strut. 

Posted
Fantastic, thank you! Looks to say that item (1) is torqued to 19 lb-ft.  Appreciate the help guys.
Did the factory nuts resolve your issue? A fee guys have had the same issue. Thanks.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, newdude said:

So per GM, the OEM version of nut #1 on the Bilstein diagram has two different specs when using the factory struts. 

 

If the truck does not have Z85 (increased capacity) or Z95 (magride) its 37 ft.lbs. 

 

If the truck has Z85 (increased capacity) or Z95 (magride) its 55 ft.lbs.   

 

Here is the Bilstein install sheet however for the strut #24-238304:  https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/E4-WM5-Y458A00.pdf

 

They call for 19 ft.lbs with their strut. 

Great information, thank you.  Odd that there’s a difference Between OEM and Bilstein specs because they’re both compressing the OEM rubber top bushing.  Thanks for your help.

Posted
53 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Did the factory nuts resolve your issue? A fee guys have had the same issue. Thanks.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk
 

I haven’t tried yet.  It’s 14F outside and I want to wait until it’s above freezing to torque the nut again.  I will report back when I get around to it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I torqued the centre shock rod nut of the driver side shock to the Bilstein recommended 19 lb-ft of torque, and they still squeak (both sides).  I then upped it to 25 lb-ft and it still squeaks.  Since I have a Z71, I will next try to torque them to 37 lb-ft per the OEM specs as newdude posted above.

I can't even describe how loud this squeaking is.  I'm wondering if I should have packed that top rubber mount with synthetic grease when I reassembled it even though it was initially dry?  If it doesn't stop squeaking with increasing the torque, I will likely end up disassembling it again and putting in a light layer of grease, or possibly even replacing the top rubber mount. 

 

Posted

I would just use the factory nut my friend. Its a different design made to pull the strut shaft up into the top mount by like a 1/4 in.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted

So I finally got around to torquing the strut top nut to 37 lbft on both sides.  I also found that my passenger side nut had completely backed off and was very loose.  That did the trick and now nothing makes a sound on either side.  I’m very happy.  You could see due to the nut not being torqued properly that The rod was moving slightly on the steel washer that rides in the bushing when I jacked the truck up and down which caused the squeaking.  Always torque everything to spec and trust the engineers that design these machines.  Thanks all for your help.  I’m now 100% satisfied with the Bilstein 5100 level.  Ya’ll have to buy a crows foot kit for your torque wrenches.  

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 423 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Even tougher is the 5.0 / 302. That's what this one has.    https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg   https://postimg.cc/4n3F3yzY   Just realized I had the airbox removed in the engine pic, lol.
    • Yep! This should be a pin somewhere as @pgamboa really dives into all of this. Thanks for reposting the link!
    • I did the new thermostat after doing a 'flip' for a year. Runs as cool one way as the other in the summer but in the winter there is a bit of a floor. Yellow with the new 70 C thermostat. My data over the life of the unit to date. Still need more cooler. Anyway that floor helped both winter fuel economy and shift quality in the winter. I found it a good balance.       
    • Evan Williams Bottled in Bond   So pouring the last of a bottle of Evan Williams Black label last night I set off the the state store for a refill only to be denied the by an empty shelf. Rats.    What the did have was a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. 100 proof. Hum, a few bucks more but a known distiller. Lets have a swing at it. ( I have before )    Cracked it open and pour a serving over ice. Hum.... more heat, yes. More alcohol naturally. But the barreling not the proof brings the taste and this one came up short.    Oh is was familiar but the heat ran the barrel over like a Peterbilt runs over a squirrel. Could use a heavier toasting of the oak me thinks or perhaps a longer barreling. Who knows. But what I can say is ice or a water back isn't the answer. What kills one kills them both. Sad. It is a pleasant drink....if you have little to compare it to.  
    • I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...