At 170K + on my 4.8l can or should I fix/ upgrage/ replace. Engine swap??

Rcl700 · January 11, 2020

_{Okay, guys I'm new to all this but after searching the inner webs I'm now really confused.}

_{I have a 2010 Sierra Crew Cab SL 2WD 4.8L with about 170,000 miles. I'm the original owner. I know I'm getting up there in miles and will likely need to start doing major maintenance in the near future to keep this truck reliable.}

_{It has recently started having terrible cold starts, the starter sticks and the engine misses for like 10-15 set the all is good and the problem is gone on the next startup. (not sure whats going on)}

_{I plan to keep this truck running till the wheels fall off. Its paid for and does the job (and looks good).}

Due to the recent issues I'v been thinking of what my best options are to keep her going long into the future. I mentioned to a buddy what I was thinking about and he brought up replacing the engine with a 6.0L when major issues arise. I like the idea of the additional ponies ans the 4.8 has always been weak, especially paired with the 4 speed trans.

My truck is basically bone stock and a daily driver / commuter. I want reliability but some more power would be great too.

What are my options for engine swaps? There are so many engine codes and different year models that I'm lost as to what fits with minimal mods. I know I will need to get my ecu tuned to a different size engine but some say the 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0 are interchangeable. but year models and engine codes year models come into play ( then I'm lost).

I also have questions about my trans and gearing. Can I keep them ? Will they work? Will an upgrade kill my MPG?

I need some info from guys that have experience with this stuff. I'm not trying to build a hot rod just a strong reliable truck..

Thanks for any info you can provide.

CamGTP · January 11, 2020

A larger engine will mean more power but less fuel mileage. The 6.0 swap would make for the worst mileage and the 5.3 only slightly less than what you probably get now.

The transmission behind a 5.3 is okay but behind a 6.0 can be worry some as that is a lot of extra hp/torque. For all we know the stock 4L60e may last a good while or it may take a dump soon after. A fresh rebuild with some upgraded internals would make it handle the 6.0 much better.

The 4.8/5.3/6.0 blocks are basically all the same, some are iron and some are aluminum. Any change would mean computer programming. You'd also want to figure out what you'd want to do about the 5.3 engine option if you went that route, as all the 5.3's from that era run active fuel management (DoD system). Ideally that would want to be deleted and swapped with non AFM/DoD parts to make it a standard 5.3.

The 6.0 engines would be either the LY6 or L96. A 5.3 should be a LMG or LC9 with the LC9 being the aluminum version.

As far as what is wrong with your truck now, I couldn't really say. Could be simple stuff. If you've never cleaned the MAF sensor or throttle body, that is basically free things to do if you have the cleaners. Past that it's inspecting spark plugs and stuff like that. If you had a fuel pressure tester you could make sure fuel pressure is within spec with key on engine off and while running. A live data scanner could even point out other things if you understand what you are looking at.

Rcl700 · January 11, 2020

So If I were to source a LY6 or L96 to I go for a re-maned block lower end and move over all my top end or junkyard a complete engine?

What kind of of gains do think my truck would see going to a 6.0?

Is the 4L60e likely to trans I currently have? If it will bolt up to the 6.0 options?

If I'm not running big tires or a lift or towing a bunch wouldn't I see a gain or maybe a balance in the current MPG being tht the engine has additional HP and torque

Rcl700 · January 12, 2020

What would it take to upgrade the trans also? I dislike the 4 speed but that may be more to do with the lack of power in the 4.8L and prob gearing in the crew cab.

CamGTP · January 12, 2020

The 4.8 is a cathedral port cylinder head, the 6.0 is a square port head. You'd need to use the 6.0 intake manifold. Where you get said engine is up to you. Be it a junkyard, LKQ used parts or a reman engine from someone.

Whatever power difference between the two engines are, is your power gain... So if your 4.8 makes around 300hp/300tq at the crank, the 6.0 makes 360hp/385tq.

Yes, you have a 4L60e. Yes the 6.0 bolts up to it. You'd use the 4L60e flex plate.

You won't gain mileage and you'll lose mileage. Think about, you are gaining 1.2 Liters of engine displacement. That is a huge jump. Which means more air being sucked in at any given time, thus more fuel needed to power it.

If you want a guesstimation on mileage just google the EPA fuel economy ratings of a 2007-2009ish Votec Max Silverado/Sierra. Those came with a 6.0 engine but with all the AFM/DoD stuff you don't want. That should get you in the ball park for fuel mileage.

Rcl700 · January 12, 2020

13 hours ago, CamGTP said:

The 4.8 is a cathedral port cylinder head, the 6.0 is a square port head. You'd need to use the 6.0 intake manifold. Where you get said engine is up to you. Be it a junkyard, LKQ used parts or a reman engine from someone.

Whatever power difference between the two engines are, is your power gain... So if your 4.8 makes around 300hp/300tq at the crank, the 6.0 makes 360hp/385tq.

Yes, you have a 4L60e. Yes the 6.0 bolts up to it. You'd use the 4L60e flex plate.

You won't gain mileage and you'll lose mileage. Think about, you are gaining 1.2 Liters of engine displacement. That is a huge jump. Which means more air being sucked in at any given time, thus more fuel needed to power it.

If you want a guesstimation on mileage just google the EPA fuel economy ratings of a 2007-2009ish Votec Max Silverado/Sierra. Those came with a 6.0 engine but with all the AFM/DoD stuff you don't want. That should get you in the ball park for fuel mileage.

Thanks for all the info you have provided thus far. I need to start looking at what makes the most since cost wise and what is available.

Is the best way to find used motors to just call local junk yards and ask for the specific year model 6.0 that I'm looking for?

I'm glad you informed me about the intake manifold being different. I was under the impression that it was all interchangeable.

Korbin · January 13, 2020

The 6.0 actually gets better mpg than the 4.8 or 5.3 partly because the ls motor was designed as a 6.0 then they adapted it to a 5.3 and 4.8 so the smaller sizes were kind of an after thought and also. The reason why I love Chevy ls based motor so much is cause there all like LEGO’s more or less all 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 are completely interchangeable as far as long blocks go for short blocks 4.8 and 5.3 are totally interchangeable the only real difference between The different models are like which heads they had which there mostly interchangeable between blocks. Or if it’s aluminum block vs iron block which it really doesn’t matter which one honestly. all you need is to go to a dyno or tuning shop and have them load the new engine displacement tune onto your ecu. You can drive the truck other there after the swap it just won’t run right at all so do t drive all around with it if your going 4.8 to 6.0 it might not run but you should be able to take in just the ecu depending on the shop. And no you can’t take he ecu from the same displacement motor and expect it to work because the vin is encoded in the ecu and it’s also encoded with your security module or whatever is called I’m pulling a blank but basically the vin numbers won’t match so it’ll think your trucks trying to be stolen. But you can keep all your same wiring and sensors motor mounts etc. sorry for the whole novel but I’d figure just lay it out there for others to help them too. But the only thing that I guess matters is make sure you get the same generation motor as your truck. Which you should have a gen 4 instead of the gen 3 I think it been a minute since I’ve had to remember those. Also same pretty much goes for the trans just get the same converter that the motor had. Transmissions are a little more complicated than that but I’m sure your sick of hearing from me lol.

Edited January 13, 2020 by Korbin

Korbin · January 13, 2020

On 1/11/2020 at 5:03 PM, Rcl700 said:

What would it take to upgrade the trans also? I dislike the 4 speed but that may be more to do with the lack of power in the 4.8L and prob gearing in the crew cab.

You may have 3.08 gearing and going to .3.73 and doing a 6.0 swap would be absolutely night and day I’m sure your right tho about the lack of power in the 4.8.

Rcl700 · January 13, 2020

Thanks for all the info. This is what I need to know.

If I find a 6.0 I need to make sure I get the intake too, correct. \ All other acc from my motor will bolt up.

Would I leave my trans as it is. Same torque converter? a I dont want a race car. I just this truck to commute and family vacations

But If I'm coming up on time to do timing chain, water pump. may be worth upgrading if its not too much more work.

Rcl700 · January 13, 2020

On 1/11/2020 at 1:02 PM, Rcl700 said:

_{Okay, guys I'm new to all this but after searching the inner webs I'm now really confused.}

_{I have a 2010 Sierra Crew Cab SL 2WD 4.8L with about 170,000 miles. I'm the original owner. I know I'm getting up there in miles and will likely need to start doing major maintenance in the near future to keep this truck reliable.}

_{It has recently started having terrible cold starts, the starter sticks and the engine misses for like 10-15 set the all is good and the problem is gone on the next startup. (not sure whats going on)}

............

I think I may have found info relating to my trucks issues with cold starts and the starter staying engaged.

Bulletin No.: 16-NA-383 Date: May-2017

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10137635-9999.pdf

Hopefully I can do a intake service and fix the problem.

Just thought It may help someone else that may be having similar issues.

Anyone tried AT-100 intake blast? or should I go with Seafoam fogger?

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Automotive-AT-100-Complete-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B01FFRYF6M/ref=asc_df_B01FFRYF6M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241961652672&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11924419964896152434&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010894&hvtargid=pla-583835246288&psc=1

swathdiver · January 13, 2020

On 1/11/2020 at 1:02 PM, Rcl700 said:

What are my options for engine swaps? There are so many engine codes and different year models that I'm lost as to what fits with minimal mods. I know I will need to get my ecu tuned to a different size engine but some say the 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0 are interchangeable. but year models and engine codes year models come into play ( then I'm lost).

I also have questions about my trans and gearing. Can I keep them ? Will they work? Will an upgrade kill my MPG?

Hey Ryan. About the only difference between your 4.8 and a 5.3 is the crankshaft. You could drop in a 5.3 crankshaft, use the factory camshaft from an LH8 or LH9 which was made for VVT (which you have already) but not AFM, and you now have a 320 horse motor. Heads, intake, injectors, fuel pump, etc. are all the same so no need to change them.

It takes a whole lot of work to change transmission from the 4-speed to a 6-speed. Stick with what you have and just beef it up to the 4L65 standard if you do not have one already. RPO M30 is for 4L60 and M32 is for the 4L65. M70 is for the Supermatic 4L70.

Check out the provided link to learn more about your engine and the Gen IV options like it:

https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4837

Your engine has VVT, introduced on Gen IV 4.8 and 5.3 engines in 2010. The 2007-2009 engines of the aforementioned size do not have VVT. All of the Gen IV 6.0 and 6.2 engines have VVT and some have AFM as well.