Jump to content

2020 2500HD Denali Power Loss


tima0101

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently purchased a 2020 Duramax 2500 Denali.  Noticed a couple times driving on highway without really any load on the truck that it was either slipping (transmission) or cutting power.  Super jerky and the RPMs kept going up and down.  Had to baby the throttle for a while to keep it moving down the road.  No codes or dash warnings.  That's happened 5-10 times in the first 6,000 miles of driving.  Yesterday I was pulling a trailer (7,000LB) and the truck kept cutting out power at highway speeds.  Just no response to the throttle, truck jerks, then power comes back.  Finally the dash warned me "engine power is reduced" then a second warning came on that said "service emission system."  DEF is full.  It was between 0-10 degrees F outside.  Check engine light came on but this morning it was off.  Was able to drive 100 miles home.  Dealer is telling me it's bad diesel but seeing as this has happened consistently through 6,000 miles of driving and I buy fuel from different vendors, I don't buy it's a fuel issue.  Anybody else had this issue?  Also worth noting this issue has never happened until more than 30 minutes into my drive.

 

Thanks for any help.

Posted

At 0 to 10F I'd be suspicious of fuel gelling.

 

Source of fuel? Is the source likely to have had 'winter blend'?  

 

Of course that wouldn't explain the other times there have been problems.

 

What % is remaining on the fuel filter?

Symptoms certainly sound like fuel flow restriction.  

 

Before the fuel filter update in about 2010, standard recommendation to new owners was to carry a fuel filter and know how to change it on the side of the road (used to be able to do that from above). 

Classic symptom of needing to change was pulling out to pass -- truck accelerating fine -- then falls on it's face as the fuel flow cannot be maintained.  

 

 

Maybe there is something going on with the filter and/or the fuel pump at the tank.

 

Posted

My truck is doing the surging thing, but not at highway speeds. It also feels like your on a rumble strip when it shifts gears. It has been doing this since 2k miles, and got real bad the other day. Im at 8k miles and took it back to the dealer for the 3rd time and told them to keep it until they figure it out. I called them a day later and the transmission is full of radiator fluid. They have no idea how to fix it right now but obviously my transmission is trashed. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

tima0101, the next time it happens, stop, get out and remove the fuel cap to see if it has excessive vacuum in the tank.

If it does, the fuel cap is not venting/letting air in to replace the volume of fuel that is being used.

This happened way back in the 90's and would actually slowly collapse the tank inward from the vacuum.

The fix was to change the cap because it was plugged with dirt from the air coming in to the tank.

I don't expect yours would be plugged with dirt, but it may be defective.

Posted

Like redwngr said, it is more likely to be gelling fuel or you might have got a shot of water in your tank on a fuel fill.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,835
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ballencd
    Newest Member
    ballencd
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 595 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
    • The lifter issue can be dealt with by shorter oil changes and quality oil IMO.
    • Got heavy rain, hail and light rain yesterday. 
    • I'm putting in an A-pillar pod/gauges, and I'm asking if anybody can identify a (preferably) fuse for a switched power and illumination circuit on the driver's side interior fuse panel. Offhand, everything I checked with a test light was constant-hot, and I'd much rather uses a piggyback fuse. I can certainly find a wire, but I'd rather not half-tap.   Thanks in advance for any help.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...