Jump to content

Suggestions mounting air compressor?

FirstAscent
 Share

Recommended Posts

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

 

I’m currently debating on where to mount my ARB twin air compressor.

 

The engine compartment on the duramax is already fairly tight but not out of the picture completely, I’d need to build a custom bracket.

 

Somewhere in the cab, under a seat etc

 

Or in the bed/under the bed area - I’d prefer it not to be “outside” more susceptible to the elements.

 

The end goal is I’d like to have an easy external access point for connecting a hose for whatever (filling tires etc) but I also want to use this to control rear air bags as well so I’d need an easy route to the leaf spring area.

 

I’m still investigating routes and locations but figured I’d reach out if any of you have any tips. This will be the first time installing onboard air and can’t believe I waited this long as I’m always needing air.

 

Thanks for any tips!

 

8dcef2b175fe5557b32df46b7dc51f27.plist

Limelight Enthusiast

Limelight

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, FirstAscent said:

 

Hey everyone,

 

I’m currently debating on where to mount my ARB twin air compressor.

 

The engine compartment on the duramax is already fairly tight but not out of the picture completely, I’d need to build a custom bracket.

 

Somewhere in the cab, under a seat etc

 

Or in the bed/under the bed area - I’d prefer it not to be “outside” more susceptible to the elements.

 

The end goal is I’d like to have an easy external access point for connecting a hose for whatever (filling tires etc) but I also want to use this to control rear air bags as well so I’d need an easy route to the leaf spring area.

 

I’m still investigating routes and locations but figured I’d reach out if any of you have any tips. This will be the first time installing onboard air and can’t believe I waited this long as I’m always needing air.

 

Thanks for any tips!

 

8dcef2b175fe5557b32df46b7dc51f27.plist

 

I mounted mine under the rear seat- I have the single ARB though.  

 

  • Like 1
FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I mounted mine under the rear seat- I have the single ARB though.  
 

Thanks! Yeah I saw your thread earlier. I like that spot too and looks like I can make mine fit similarly from the test fitting I did.

My only “issue” with that location is I’m not sure how I’d get the air hose routed to the exterior for the air bags. Perfect for air hose for airing up tires or something with it cooled up like you have it, but will have to see if I can find a good route from there to the exterior.

Do you use yours just for random fill ups?
Limelight Enthusiast

Limelight

Posted
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, FirstAscent said:


Thanks! Yeah I saw your thread earlier. I like that spot too and looks like I can make mine fit similarly from the test fitting I did.

My only “issue” with that location is I’m not sure how I’d get the air hose routed to the exterior for the air bags. Perfect for air hose for airing up tires or something with it cooled up like you have it, but will have to see if I can find a good route from there to the exterior.

Do you use yours just for random fill ups?

Yes. I use it for my boat and camper mostly. I used to off-road a lot as well so if I ever find myself needing to air down the ARB will be a necessity!  
I blew up 3 cheapo air compressors before I bought the ARB. LOL. 
 

It would be easy to run the airline up to the firewall and out one of the factory rubber nipples they provide for wire routing. Then you can go whoever you want outside the truck.   Not sure if that works for you but it’s a suggestion. 

Edited by Limelight
  • Like 1
blamkin86 Enthusiast

blamkin86

Posted
Posted

I’ve got one more light project before I get to the air compressor. I’m wanting the dual ARB you have but I need to be prudent with money so I don’t know what I’m getting yet. 
 

I am actually considering mounting it on the drivers side under the driver or passenger. There’s a lot of area behind the factory steps that looks like it’d easily swallow up the compressor. 
 

I’m thinking there for a few reasons:

1 I want to have a shorter battery run and I can run 8 gauge to there pretty easily. I have the upfitter switches so I’d start from the passenger battery and go up and over the firewall. That also means a heavy duty relay of some sort. Haven’t researched it yet.

 

2 the passenger side has too many opportunities for the exhaust to interfere. I’m planning on running the output fitting to the area right next to the trailer plug. A run of the high pressure hose from the drivers side would be pretty short. 
 

3 if/when I add a tank there’s also plenty of room in the same area. 
 

these are my very preliminary thoughts. I found that area while I was under there installing rock lights. Looks like a natural fit to me. 

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@blamkin86 - Yeah makes sense, crazy times right now!

 

Thanks for your input, it's sunny today and not raining so I'm planning on trying to locate a couple potential mounting places, I'll look in the area you mentioned. These things aren't fully waterproof, they have an IP55 rating which protects against low pressure water so technically should be sufficient as long as you aren't pressure washing it. But "should" be OK where you mentioned from random spray from rain etc. I won't be driving through rivers or anything so there wouldn't be any submersion. 

 

From a wiring and output fitting location it definitely makes sense though. I just finished wiring my upfitter switches last night thanks to you! Although the rocker switch that comes with the compressor is pretty sweet haha

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, Limelight said:

Yes. I use it for my boat and camper mostly. I used to off-road a lot as well so if I ever find myself needing to air down the ARB will be a necessity!  
I blew up 3 cheapo air compressors before I bought the ARB. LOL. 
 

It would be easy to run the airline up to the firewall and out one of the factory rubber nipples they provide for wire routing. Then you can go whoever you want outside the truck.   Not sure if that works for you but it’s a suggestion. 

I need to take a look closer at the firewall, this could potentially work if I can find a good route to get the air line outside. The area I used to run the upfitter switches is already pretty tight, I can't imagine getting a 1/4" hose through the same area though. 

 

Inside the cab or the engine bay would be my preference for mounting though to keep it clean and away from the elements. 

kf9yr Enthusiast

kf9yr

Posted
Posted

If you mount it under the passenger seat inside the cab there is an access plug you can drill through.

I used a uni-bit and sealtite conduit from Lowe’s.

This was 1/2 inch but 3/4 would fit.

ba1f7e36456c579940f95a1f1900b02e.jpg

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you mount it under the passenger seat inside the cab there is an access plug you can drill through.

I used a uni-bit and sealtite conduit from Lowe’s.

This was 1/2 inch but 3/4 would fit.

ba1f7e36456c579940f95a1f1900b02e.jpg


Thanks! I just happen to be out looking for locations right now and looked, so you just drilled this out to suit your needs?

0a0d2b11cf8686b6a96cd0ae69f87805.plist
@Limelight - what path did you choose for your wires? Did you run them under the carpet up front and then through the firewall?
kf9yr Enthusiast

kf9yr

Posted
Posted

Yes, I removed the rear seat on driver’s side, pulled up the door sill and carpet and put a 2x4 under the carpet so the drill doesn’t tangle the carpet.

I drilled through the round fitting and installed the 90 Sealtite fitting.

In my case I ran coax through it for a radio but an air hose would work the same.

While I had the carpet up I ran a power wire under the carpet and along the rear door sill, driver’s sill and up the driver’s kick panel to the upfitter switch.

  • Like 1
FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@kfy9r thanks! That’s very helpful!


Ok everyone I now have potential plan #1 test fitted:

1. Utilize the access hole noted by @kyf9r on the PASSENGER side to run air hose to exterior

2. Run power and switch harnesses under carpet along door sill to upfitter switches and continue power wires through firewall to battery.

3. I have the standard under seat storage, I didn’t want the larger storage this time (had it on my 2019 1500) but still think I have a good spot.

I’ll need to create a bracket that raises the mounting platform 1” off the floor (thanks user manual for the test fit) this looks like I’ll have proper clearance and the seat still lifts up and down.

4. I’d have to relocate the spare tire levers as they were in the way for this option.

Test fitting different heights for a mounting bracket
17b82e70186602cd6b168c3ed0d2d031.jpg

Compressor in proposed place
1121df68c89a1e5698f327448a5fe79e.jpg

Seat down, good clearance
6e31841fa6270d296675114cfb9018ed.jpg

blamkin86 Enthusiast

blamkin86

Posted
Posted

Looks like a good choice. I permanently carry a huge ice fishing tent in front of the rear seats so that spot is out for me. I need the storage.

 

now I’m worried about water because I definitely go through shallow creek and river crossings several times a year. 

  • Like 1
blamkin86 Enthusiast

blamkin86

Posted
Posted

Had anyone looked at the area between the (diesel) air filter and passenger fender???

 

Looks like if you move the horns, there may be enough room there. If so, that seems like a great place to mount this ARB compressor. 

 

I’ll go look at the dimensions. 

  • Like 1
FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just now, blamkin86 said:

Had anyone looked at the area between the (diesel) air filter and passenger fender???

 

Looks like if you move the horns, there may be enough room there. If so, that seems like a great place to mount this ARB compressor. 

 

I’ll go look at the dimensions. 

Actually, I did notice that also! the horns would need to be relocated but the problem, at least with my specific kit, is there wasn't enough room in the opening to squeeze the compressor down there. Looks like plenty of room if it were in place, but not enough room to get it down there, the opening isn't large enough :( 

blamkin86 Enthusiast

blamkin86

Posted
Posted
38 minutes ago, FirstAscent said:

Actually, I did notice that also! the horns would need to be relocated but the problem, at least with my specific kit, is there wasn't enough room in the opening to squeeze the compressor down there. Looks like plenty of room if it were in place, but not enough room to get it down there, the opening isn't large enough :( 

Hmm....

 

I wonder how hard it is to get that fender off there...

 

(only partially kidding.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 338 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...