Jump to content

Front end popping/ slight bang

RJP44

By RJP44
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

RJP44 Enthusiast

RJP44

Posted
Posted

Truck is a 2015 2500hd with 65K on it.  Running kryptonite uca and ball joints that were just installed about 8k miles ago as well as bilstien 5100s.  I really only notice it when i hit a bump slow turning slightly.  From what I can tell both upper and lower ball joints seem tight and in good shape.  The keys are not over cranked either they could go up another 2" if I want but i felt I should keep it at a safe height.  All boots are solid without any holes.  Is there anything else fairly common I should check for on these trucks? 

EJCarter Enthusiast

EJCarter

Posted
Posted

Regarding the popping - if they are Moog ball joints, they had a bad batch that prematurely failed. I had a slight popping noise while hitting bumps, but it was only coming from the right side. I took it back to the manufacturer of my leveling kit who informed me of the ball joint problem. They ended up warranting both Moog ball joints that came in their UCAs and the popping stopped - and has not returned...

 

Regarding the slight bang - when we installed my leveling kit, I initially had a slight banging noise that could be heard and felt as a sharp vibration in the floor over certain bumps, but not all bumps. We initially had my truck cranked so it sat level. We de-cranked just slightly and the banging stopped. This increased the distance between the UCA and the droop stop. You also mentioned the bilsteins...are you running shock extensions? If not, the slight bang could be coming from your shocks fully extending over bumps...

GTBensley Enthusiast

GTBensley

Posted
Posted

Mine does this as well with stock keys turned up slightly. Lots of room between bump stop and control arm and shocks are bilstien 5100 with extenders. Started after leveling it. Everything feels tight and looks normal except the noise. I doubt its the arm hitting the stop as I have undercoating on them and it hardly disturbs it.....meaning the arms almost never hit the stop.

 

I am only leveled about 1.5 inches. 

GTBensley Enthusiast

GTBensley

Posted
Posted

I am thinking of installing longer sway bar endlinks to see if that makes any difference. 

  • 4 weeks later...
GTBensley Enthusiast

GTBensley

Posted
Posted

I ended up using chassis ears to listen and what sounded like the front ended up being in the rear. Turns out it was my leafsprings binding and making noise. Cleaned and lubricated them and its good to go. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...