Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My wife's 2018 LT Z71 has this weird intermittent issue...  Usually when she is slowing down, often when making a turn, the truck just shuts off.  Not just a stall, but the truck, dash, radio, everything shuts down completely as if she turned the key off.

 

She has to roll to a stop, put it in Park and turn the key and start it, and when it starts it tells her in the info section next to the speedo, something weird about opening and closing the window?

It's under warranty and I do plan to call the dealer tomorrow, but I figured maybe someone has seen this?  I haven't done anything to the truck recently...  Installed Billsteins like a year ago...  Checked the battery and ground wire, everything is tight, no corrosion...  Truck has 26k miles on it and is well taken care of...  No idea what it could be. No other issues other than occasionally shutting down, and that strange error warning on the info screen.  I googled that and it doesn't seem to be linked to the shutting off, and that error has popped up on trucks, Chevy Volts and Camaros over the past several years...  Couldn't find anything to point me in the right direction...

Hasn't done it to me yet, but it's happened to her like 4 or 5 times now in the past few weeks...

Any idears?

Posted
11 minutes ago, SquireSCA said:

opening and closing the window

That is telling you to perform a reset of some sort.

 

The other thing you can do is, pull the key from the ignition, open the drivers door fully, close the door, and then start the truck again, another reset method.

Posted

That is weird.  But what would cause the entire vehicle to just power off when driving it, in gear?  It did it today in traffic, going like 8mph and the motor, dash, radio, everything... was like someone just pulled the plug.

Posted
30 minutes ago, SquireSCA said:

That is weird.  But what would cause the entire vehicle to just power off when driving it, in gear?  It did it today in traffic, going like 8mph and the motor, dash, radio, everything... was like someone just pulled the plug.

Original battery? Maybe the BCM or ECM are failing, you have a communications failure somewhere.

Posted

It is the original battery, but the truck isn't even two years old...  Hope its not the ECM...  I flashed the ECU like 2 years ago with a Superchips tuner....  It's been fine, never any issues, this is something  new...

Posted
6 minutes ago, SquireSCA said:

It is the original battery, but the truck isn't even two years old...  Hope its not the ECM...  I flashed the ECU like 2 years ago with a Superchips tuner....  It's been fine, never any issues, this is something  new...

Factory batteries, in most cases, always exceptions, do not have a very long life.

 

Odd thing is they almost always check out good, if though they are failing, which leads to all of the electrical gremlins. Big computers need clean, strong power to perform as they were designed.

Posted

I guess that's one quick way to check the most obvious though first... I can toss in a new battery this week and see if it makes a difference.  Anything I have to do other than bolt it up and go?  Will it reset anything?

 

Posted
7 minutes ago, SquireSCA said:

I guess that's one quick way to check the most obvious though first... I can toss in a new battery this week and see if it makes a difference.  Anything I have to do other than bolt it up and go?  Will it reset anything?

 

I would push the dealer for a warranty replacement first, or have them install a new one, that way it should be done correctly.

 

Not saying you do not have the mechanical skills, just think there is a certain way to be safe. No reset of any sort to be done.

Posted

All of the problems you mention indicate one thing, you lost complete electrical power. A lot of times it is the ground cable. They do develop corrosion inside of the insulation where you can't see it. The cable will look great on the outside but bad inside. But the cause of the power lost can be any number of things. The battery could have any intermittent connection inside the case. Other ground cables can be bad. Whatever you do you need to concentrate on finding where the power loss in coming from. Take the battery to be tested and during the test, rock the battery like crazy to see if it will fail.

Posted

Yeah, that all makes sense.  I have an appt to drop it off at the dealer in the morning.  Explained to them how it is intermittent...  I will put the stock tune back in today before taking it over.  I am sure it isn't that...  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,660 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...