Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2008 Yukon Denali with the 6.2 and 150k miles that I am at wits end with.

It started about a year ago while driving in the mountains of CO, trucking along at 70mph I let off the throttle to coast and it died, pulled off the side of the road and tried a few times to restart, after 10 minutes it finally started. Ran fine and never did it again until this year.

This summer its been nothing but problematic, any time you drive it in traffic when hot it tries to die when coming to a stop at idle, you have to pop it into Neutral and keep the engine above 1000rpm, or it will die. Never sets a code when it does this, it will usually restart after sitting for 10-45 minutes. Always runs fine above 1000rpm.

Ive checked fuel pressure when this happens and it was at 55psi, it looks like many others suspect vapor lock with their 6.2's stalling, however I am not convinced that is the case, I can bleed the rail down to 0, and try to restart and it usually wont.

I had HPtuners hooked up to it after it stalled and wouldnt restart, I noticed when I finally got it going the voltage was hovering around 12.9-13.1 volts, I thought the alternator was possibly the culprit so I replaced it and the negative cable. It still stalls at idle though, and now Ive noticed when it does it the voltage is still hovering around 13V which seems low even at higher RPM's.

Im very suspect that the voltage has something to do with this, however Im not sure whats going on there, the alternator is new and Ive gone through every ground I can find.

 

So far Ive replaced the following

-Throttle Body

-Fuel Pump

-Alternator and battery ground

 

Looking for any other suggestions before I burn this thing to the ground

Posted

Try unplugging non-essential fuses,see if voltage goes up,or disconnect maf,then try restart,they can underreport

Posted
2 hours ago, riverbanks said:

Try unplugging non-essential fuses,see if voltage goes up,or disconnect maf,then try restart,they can underreport

Forgot to add Ive unplugged the MAF to try and start it in speed density when its acting up, but still no start.

Posted (edited)

I'm having this exact issue in my 2008 2500hd with the 6.0.  Have you gotten any further?  My mechanic is going to change the fuel pump tomorrow... 

Edited by Joehoff
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Maybe try a new ignition coil? Heat can cause expansion and if there are any hairline fractures it can cause issues at operating temp. Only to be resolved once it cools down a little bit. Sounds similar to your problem. Might be worth a shot if it isn't too expensive or you know someone you can borrow one from.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Sorry to dig up an old thread.  Did you resolve this?l issue   I’m having this same issue in my 07 NNBS.  Replaced fuel pump, fuel pump control module, and crankshaft position sensor. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Kenneth Machado said:

Sorry to dig up an old thread.  Did you resolve this?l issue   I’m having this same issue in my 07 NNBS.  Replaced fuel pump, fuel pump control module, and crankshaft position sensor. 

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2007-gmc-denali-stalls-after-towing.73312/page-8#post-1520887

 

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2007-yukon-denali-stalling.111715/

 

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2007-yukon-denali-crank-no-start-after-driving.131974/page-5#post-1668322

 

 

Posted
5 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Thanks for positing that!  My truck is an 07 NNBS with the l76 6.0.  I have a black bear tune with afm disabled.  I am noticing lower oil pressure when idling.  Could that be my issue?

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Kenneth Machado said:

Thanks for positing that!  My truck is an 07 NNBS with the l76 6.0.  I have a black bear tune with afm disabled.  I am noticing lower oil pressure when idling.  Could that be my issue?

Not unless the pressure is at zero.  These aluminum engines run at low pressures, mine when hot, with old oil, is in the low 20s at a stop light for example.

Posted
4 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Not unless the pressure is at zero.  These aluminum engines run at low pressures, mine when hot, with old oil, is in the low 20s at a stop light for example.

Thats good to know.  i`m not sure where to look next, maybe the throttle position sensor?

Posted
11 hours ago, Kenneth Machado said:

Thats good to know.  i`m not sure where to look next, maybe the throttle position sensor?

 

Well, how low is the oil pressure?  When was the last time you unbolted the throttle body from the intake and cleaned it?

 

CRC Mass Air Flow & Throttle Body Single-Use Cleaner Twin Pack Kit

Walmart and local auto parts stores have this.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Replace the under hood fuse block. This fixed majority of my electrical issues and solved the stalling problem. 
if your alternator is charging all over the place this fixed mine to where it stays steady at 14v or higher. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,563 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...