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Header Question...Need Opinions

DSZ71

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DSZ71 Enthusiast

DSZ71

Posted
Posted

Okay, so I decided that before I get my BL this next summer, I am going to save up for some headers. I have begun to do the research necessary for finding the best quality headers for the best price. Although the price is an issue (somewhat), I do not mind paying for a high quality product that is going to give me the best possible performance. With that being said, I have narrowed the search down to the following 3 choices. (not in any particular order)

#1 Doug Thorley

#2 TOG

#3 ASM

 

What I would like to know from you guys is the following:

#1 Which would be easiest to install? (2000 5.3L engine)

#2 Which style would work best with my application? (shortys, midlength, or long tubes)

#3 Is the ceramic coating necessary? This usually adds another $150 to the pricetag.

 

Sorry for the long email, and all the questions, its just that before I potentially spend over $750 for the headers, I want to make sure I have covered all the angles. Thanks guys!! :cool:

 

DSZ71

1BADHD Enthusiast

1BADHD

Posted
Posted
Okay, so I decided that before I get my BL this next summer, I am going to save up for some headers. I have begun to do the research necessary for finding the best quality headers for the best price. Although the price is an issue (somewhat), I do not mind paying for a high quality product that is going to give me the best possible performance. With that being said, I have narrowed the search down to the following 3 choices. (not in any particular order)

#1  Doug Thorley

#2  TOG

#3  ASM

 

What I would like to know from you guys is the following:

#1 Which would be easiest to install? (2000 5.3L engine)

#2 Which style would work best with my application? (shortys, midlength, or long tubes)

#3 Is the ceramic coating necessary? This usually adds another $150 to the pricetag.

 

Sorry for the long email, and all the questions, its just that before I potentially spend over $750 for the headers, I want to make sure I have covered all the angles. Thanks guys!! :cool:

 

DSZ71

I am going with Thorley when the get the 6.0 headers out in the spring. For the price, the look very attractive compared to ASM or TOG. Hell its almost $300 difference. They are a proven design for torque (Tri Y). The are much cheaper and have the same warranties and workmanship as the other name brands.

 

As far as install. They are all teh same if you go mid-full length. Shorites are teh easiest.

 

If you wnat low end, mid-long tube are what you want. If you want high end power, shorties will do.

 

I dont think Ceramic coating is a must. Depends what you like. I personally see nothing wrong with high temp header paint. But, the coating will help keep under hood temps down.

DSZ71 Enthusiast

DSZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, those are the kind of things I wanted to know. If the TOGs or ASMs are really worth the extra price tag. I would like to have some lower end torque because I hardly ever really open it up unless I am on the highway, then its more of a cruising speed. I believe the lower end performance is more important, especially during off-roading. Thanks again! :cool:

americanmuscleman Enthusiast

americanmuscleman

Posted
Posted

While I don't have first hand experience with putting headers on a 5.3, I have put them on my 350 in my Tahoe, and on a lot of muscle cars including an 01' SS camaro which has a very similar engine to your 5.3.

 

Shorty headers are going to be cheaper, but your not going to see the gains you would with longtube or mid-length headers. In my experience I've found mid-length and longtube headers to give better mid-range and top end power. Since the exhaust is quite a bit more free flowing, it seems to move the torque curve up the powerband a little. Shorty headers don't seem to move it hardly at all, but do give more power than manifolds.

 

Most of the manifolds on the LS1 derived engines (4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L) seem to flow decently. I don't think your going to see a huge gain with shorty headers. I didn't see a big gain with my shorty headers on my 350, and the factory manifolds I had were terrible.

 

Similarly, on my camaro I have longtubes on (which had similarly poor flowing manifolds like my truck), I saw a huge gain switching to longtube headers.

 

If I were buying headers and planning to keep the truck for any length of time, I would look for stainless steel headers. They won't hardly rust, and are typically made better and have thicker flanges (typically). The next best thing to stainless, in my opinion, is ceramic coated steel headers. The coating will keep them from rusting (except where you scrap the coating off) and they will keep down underhood temperatures.

 

If you don't coat your headers, and you get any sort of winter weather, after one winter they will be solid rust, and not likely last more than 2 to 3 years before they get a hole in them somewhere.

 

Just my 2 cents

DSZ71 Enthusiast

DSZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks. It looks like I have made up my mind on the ceramic coating, its necessary, especially for the engine temps. I live in Arizona, and the weather is rather temperate around here, not much snow, maybe 2-3 times only. The roads are not treated if it does snow. I just cant make up my mind on which headers to get, but I am leaning towards the Thorley's due to the Tri Y design (better exhaust release) and cheaper price tag. I have a few more months to go before I order anything, until then I am sure I will have several more ?????.

 

DSZ71

Willys33 Enthusiast

Willys33

Posted
Posted

I have JBA shorty headers on my 2000 ex-cab Silverado. They were on there when I bought the truck but, the installation doesn't look bad at all. Mine are silver coated. I think they make a great product. Site is JBAHeaders.com Good luck with your project, Mike

Durkin Enthusiast

Durkin

Posted
Posted

Here is my 2Cents about shorty headers.

 

Since there are only a few bends that are possible in the short distance from the head to the exhaust pipe to the cats (that have to stay in place in California) and almost all of the makers use the same diameter pipe, about all that is really different is the decal you get with them. There may be some difference quality of the welding or the fit of the flanges, but I really doubt the dyno or your butt will be able to tell the difference.

 

Having said this, I have a set of stainless JBA's on my 5.3 L 2003 Tahoe Z71; and after two whole weeks, I am real happy. :

 

The headers, Flowmaster 70, MSD wires, DELCO 41-932 plugs, K&N filter in stock box, and a Predator tune raised my RWHP from 207 at 5,200 RPM to 289.

 

Going to Barona's 1/8th track this weekend to see how it runs.

 

Regards,

 

Durkin

99Silver6.0 Senior Enthusiast

99Silver6.0

Posted
Posted

JBA are about the best shorties you can get. I hear alot of good things about the ASM and TOG LT's. Shorties wont net you much gain in HP like the longtubes will. Only thing is the ASM and TOG headers are pretty expensive. But when it comes down to it, you get what you pay for. Get them Jet-Hot or ceramic coated to help keep under hood temps down. If you do get longtubes you will have to do some cutting and welding to connect them to the stock y-pipe. With shorties you dont. Header choice really all depends on what you want out of your truck. If you get a cam with a fair amount of lift, new headers will help to open things up a bit. Along with a good cat-back.

 

The headers, Flowmaster 70, MSD wires, DELCO 41-932 plugs, K&N filter in stock box, and a Predator tune raised my RWHP from 207 at 5,200 RPM to 289.

 

82HP.... Have you ever dynoed your truck?

Durkin Enthusiast

Durkin

Posted
Posted

Folks:

 

I agree that it seems to be a lot for abunch of bolt-ons. But here I am looking at the dyno sheets.

 

After adding the K&N, headers and exhaust: RWHP=231, Torque = 307.

 

Then after the Predator, MSD wires, colder Delco 41-932, plugs and with GMS MAF: RWHP = 289, Torque = 294.3. All of this is at sea level and the temperature was in the mid-60's.

 

But the GMS MAF caused it to lean out so much that it went into "limp"; so after fooling with that for a while, I removed the GMS MAF.

 

I am now waiting for a custom tune from James at Runninwiththedevil. There is a lot of talk about which programmer is better, but one thing that is often overlooked is that you can reprogram a Predator by downloading a file from someone who probably uses LS1 Edit to modify your stock program file. Then you can make chages to that file if you need to change tire size or any of the other parameters. And the predator is a scanner and will read out fault codes and clear them. Most of the other programmers do not have these features.

 

In any event, after I get the custom tune installed it's back to the dyno and then to a 1/8th mile drag strip to see what this really means.

 

All of this most likely will lead to a Whipple or Radix supercharger for Christmas!

 

Regards,

 

Durkin

Durkin Enthusiast

Durkin

Posted
Posted

No offense taken! I am also surprised!!

 

Just thought it needed some explanation and hope the added Predator info will help someone else.

 

Regards,

 

Durkin

99Silver6.0 Senior Enthusiast

99Silver6.0

Posted
Posted
99

 

those are the dyno numbers!

 

Regards,

 

Durkin

 

Is the dyno broken? :cool:

 

I have and use Edit. As for reading codes and such, thats what AutpTap is for. From a cost perspective the Diablo may be best. But from a performance standpoint Edit is far more superior. Did you send that guy at Runnin' a snapshot of your truck? Are you driving your truck to him and having the tune done?

 

Go Magnuson!! (Radix, Magna) :rolleyes:

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