Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

New first time owner of GMC Sierra 1500 Ultra Denali Carbonpro.  Looking for suggestions for Hard tri-fold tonneau cover. Also, need good instructions for installation and preferably a detailed step by step video.  The truck will be towed behind our motorhome, so the tonneau is pretty important to keep road grime, gravel and weather out.  Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Welcome. I’m a newbie too. Got a 21 also. Check out your local Leer or whatever truck businesses. Leer installs caps, but they have a vast array of tonneau covers. 

Posted

Thanks for the advice, Morgan.  Most of the dealers I have talked to have not installed tonneau covers on the Carbon Pro box.  Some have said they would need to drill into the carbon fiber, and that is something I don't want to do.  I have been talking to Weather Tech about their alloy tri-fold tonneau.  They have a j-clip system to secure the side rails to the Carbon Pro box on my Sierra 1500 Denali.  I am now waiting to receive it and will try to post some pics when it is on.  

Posted

I apologize. I just skimmed over where you said Carbon Box Pro. It will be awesome to see some pics. I’m getting a cap put on mine cuz I go hunting a lot, but I have to wait til January 2021. Anyways, have a good night

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

OK, got the Weather Tech Alloy Tonneau cover.  My wife and I installed it in approx. 3 hours.  We are both 70 years young, and although a bit rough on the knees and back, we had little trouble.  The "drill guide" provided by WT as a bit difficult to maneuver into the correct hole, as there are the square holes in the carbon fiber next to the round holes that need drilling through the plastic cap.  Once we figured out how to get the guide in the right place, the process became easier.  The "U" clips went in through the existing square holes with a little extra effort from a flat head screwdriver to line up with the round holes.  The side rails went on pretty easily, but the bolt heads were to close to allow my sockets to fit.  I had to use the open end 10mm, which added to the time required.  Installing the  cover was a breeze (I did that by myself under my wife's careful observation.)  

Tonneau cover.jpg

tonneau side rail bracket.jpg

tonneau side rail.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

BTW, rained pretty hard the night after the install.  Interior was dry.  Drove through rain storm next day and bed was dry.  So far feel good about this cover.

Posted
1 hour ago, WickTed said:

OK, got the Weather Tech Alloy Tonneau cover.  My wife and I installed it in approx. 3 hours.  We are both 70 years young, and although a bit rough on the knees and back, we had little trouble.  The "drill guide" provided by WT as a bit difficult to maneuver into the correct hole, as there are the square holes in the carbon fiber next to the round holes that need drilling through the plastic cap.  Once we figured out how to get the guide in the right place, the process became easier.  The "U" clips went in through the existing square holes with a little extra effort from a flat head screwdriver to line up with the round holes.  The side rails went on pretty easily, but the bolt heads were to close to allow my sockets to fit.  I had to use the open end 10mm, which added to the time required.  Installing the  cover was a breeze (I did that by myself under my wife's careful observation.)  

Tonneau cover.jpg

tonneau side rail bracket.jpg

tonneau side rail.jpg

Looks great, congratulations on your new truck and bed cover!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,317 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...