Jump to content

Vibration - Braking over 40mph

jsm10
 Share

Recommended Posts

jsm10 Enthusiast

jsm10

Posted
Posted

All, I am hoping someone can help me with some advise.  My wife's 2011 Tahoe had a couple of issues.  The first is a noticeable vibration when braking at 40mph and above.  The other problem was a typical brake grabbing when you have a warped disk brake rotor.  I changed both back rotors and the issue with the brake grabbing went away.  The grabbing was what I consider typical warped rotor behavior.  You could feel it at nearly all speeds with varying frequency with the vehicle speed.  However, I am somewhat puzzled by the vibration during braking that only occurs at about 40mph+ that is still remaining.  Absolutely no issues at lower speeds.  I was thinking maybe it could be the front rotors, but I would think a warped rotor would cause problems at all speeds.  Before I threw money at a set of front rotors, I figured I would try to get some input from other folks.  Is there anything else that could cause this (cupped tires, slop in a ball joint, etc.) or is a set of front rotors probably the best place to start?  Thanks in advance! 

riverbanks Senior Enthusiast

riverbanks

Posted
Posted

You got it, nothing like a second opinion though,change the fronts, make sure all pads slide freely, dragging causes warping

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,938
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    C. Hart
    Newest Member
    C. Hart
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 1 Anonymous, 592 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Thanks everyone for the help!   I'm going to stop into the scales one of these days and weigh my axels, for the time being, I am going to run Toyo's recommendations and also do a chalk test. I have a tire shop that's going to try their scanner to reprogram and set the the factory psi values lower, and if they can't I'm going to order a scanner and do it myself!
    • KARNUT
      Exhaust Question

      By KARNUT · Posted

      You won’t do better than stock exhaust without headers. Just put your favorite muffler on it and it will do the job. 
    • C. Hart
      Exhaust Question

      By C. Hart · Posted

      I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • newdude
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By newdude · Posted

      Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"     I'd say its the head, and its either leaking at the casting line and dripping down the intake into the cylinder, or its another spot on the casting itself at the cylinder that is getting wet.  
    • asilverblazer
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...