Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Have driven diesels (all three) since the mid 90’s and looking to possibly buy a ¾ ton gasser for our teenage daughter, budget is approx. $20-25k, of course would like to spend less, but looking for something that I don’t have to wrench on every weekend that may have a few of the driver safety features of today.   

 

Would be used mainly for daily driving (school is 25 miles one way) and also pulling gooseneck horse trailer occasionally…she could take our dually when I’m not there but this would always be another option 

 

Leaning towards either Ram 2500 (5.7 or 6.4) or GM 2500 (6.0)…is there anything about either of these that have issues with specific model years?  

 

Any issues out of lease turn ins?  

 

I’ve found tradesman Rams and both WT and low end LT GMs in our budget with <125k

Posted

I have a 2017 GM 2500 6.0 that would probably be in your price range on the used retail market.

 

My first thought was the 25 mi commute and the cost of gas. You'd probably be looking at 10-14 MPG depending on highway or city driving. I'd calculate it at 13 not knowing. Not a cheap city runner but you will not be wrenching on it all the time.

 

The 6.0L L96 is a strong engine, fine for pulling your gooseneck up to about 13000lbs and a good candidate for lots of upgrades if you want to throw hardware at it. It responds well to intake, exhaust, cam, superchargers, you can really go crazy on these.

 

Just for economy I'd absolutely look at the smaller Ram. Their interior (on the half tons, not sure about the 3/4 tons) is much nicer in my opinion.

 

Sent from the demons in my head

 

 

 

 

Posted

I've had 2 of the 6.0L's and know a number of folks with very high mileage 6.0's - they are a good engine.

 

I very highly doubt you will touch anything in the 2015+ range for $20-25k (at least in our area you won't). Certainly not with at least 100k miles on it - current conditions merit top dollar for used trucks.

 

Rams are very nice - but GM and Ram love to have rusty rockers. Good luck searching!

Posted

Have thought about a half ton, but leaning towards a little more heft especially if she ever has to pull something or just in general have a bigger vehicle than the majority of everyone else, off the cuff she may put 1200-1500 miles on it in a month…so 13mpg vs 18mpg is about $50 difference… 

 

trying to stay away from whatever we get from being “too nice”…bares bones is fine for a first vehicle as long as its safe…downside is if you want any of the safety features, those usually aren’t available on the lower end models. 

 

And yes – probably looking for something right around the 100k mile mark 

 

ewbldavis (Eddy) - how much salt do they use on the roads up there?  dealership down here in the south has a few lease returns that were all serviced out of Ohio on the carfax (16/17s)...i havent climbed under one yet, just saw them on their website

Posted

Out here on the west coast the prices for late model 2500hd gassers is crazy.  The local Chevy dealer has called/emailed at least three times in the last few months trying to get me to trade mine in or offering to buy it outright.  It serves me perfectly so I am keeping it.

 

I wish you the best in your search, though.  If your teenage daughter is a horse girl you have a huge part of life's struggles well under control!  One of the best investments I ever made was a horse for my girl.

Posted
22 hours ago, today14 said:

 

ewbldavis (Eddy) - how much salt do they use on the roads up there?  dealership down here in the south has a few lease returns that were all serviced out of Ohio on the carfax (16/17s)...i havent climbed under one yet, just saw them on their website

Depends on weather. A 16/17 should be in decent condition. We've had a couple mild winters. Even my 2015 with 45k miles was still pretty clean. If truck was cared for properly, should be good. May even be undercoated, which helps in long run I believe.

Posted
On 11/19/2020 at 2:15 PM, Mike Barber said:

Out here on the west coast the prices for late model 2500hd gassers is crazy.  The local Chevy dealer has called/emailed at least three times in the last few months trying to get me to trade mine in or offering to buy it outright.  It serves me perfectly so I am keeping it.

 

I wish you the best in your search, though.  If your teenage daughter is a horse girl you have a huge part of life's struggles well under control!  One of the best investments I ever made was a horse for my girl.

 

dealers around here are beating the bushes for sure trying to find good used vehicles...family member bought a new Camry at the first of the year and the dealer called them up mid summer and got them to trade the one they just bought in on one that was identical to what they had...guess it worked out

 

and yes, horses are a great way to teach responsibility, figure we’ll spend it on something so might as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,238 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...