Regular Cab Standard box suspension options

[LBentley]

Hello All,

 

I’m looking for a coil/strut combination for the front of my truck.

 

I don’t believe there was much thought put into doing anything difference for the reduced weight and reduced length of the regular cab / 6’6” box. Truck has always been very rough, and thus the nature of it I’m sure. Truck was plagued with the shake from the beginning, but GM refuses to fix. Shake subsided marginally with the addition of 2” level. Then went to Bilstein 5100’s, but the front of the truck on the 1.85” setting is as rough or rougher then factory, back is much smoother.

 

I dislike the idea of increasing the spring rate tension to give the lift.

 

is there a smoother more forgiving option for the front of these trucks? Perhaps one proven to the short wheel base? One with lift included would be ideal. However going down this road again I want to be sure I’m upgrading the ride substantially.

[LBentley]

My truck is a 2017 Silverado 5.3/4WD WT

[James Dink]

felt the same in my single cab with 5100s and my conclusion was ditching 20" wheels and now the truck rides better than ever

[LBentley]

On 11/29/2020 at 12:19 PM, James ****** said:

felt the same in my single cab with 5100s and my conclusion was ditching 20" wheels and now the truck rides better than ever

Makes total sense. And I’ve entertained the thought before. But with 285/60/20 duratracs and the general appearance the trucks make 20’s look tiny. I like the OEM look as well. 
 

ive seen the quick lift ranchos but I doubt the quality of ride.

[Grumpy Bear]

Been here, done this. It's a check list situation.

 

1.) Factory shocks are digressive this writeup will help explain that. 

 

https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/digressive-vs-linear-vs-progressive-pistons-shock-valving/#:~:text=The terms Digressive%2C Linear%2C and,5100 %26 6100) are digressive.

 

2.) Many times the factory alignment will have excessive amounts of caster. Use the mid to lower half of the range as your target. 

 

3.) Any lift done at the coil over limits rebound distance and removing the stops to get it back kills ball joints. Use a knuckle lift and a damper/spring that puts the total stroke at 50-60% of compression. 

 

4.) Allot of that front jar comes from the back half. Ditto on dampers. 

 

I used KING OEM replacement but FOX is also linear and cheaper and very tunable.