James Dink

sorry meant, stick out now

my wheels were perfectly flush, now tuck after a lift that included spindles, which was to be expected. Does anyone make negative offset wheels that would pull them back in?

I have max trac spindles now but I really dont like the wheels being pushed out. Are there spindles that dont widen the track width? This is assuming any lift beyond spacers needs to be a spindle.

Mine started clicking loud before it started to seize, take it in or delete it if youre tuned. Brakes are better with a straight vac source from the manifold

a tiny spacer is an easy fix

top of my fuel pump was leaking as well, but it was enough to reach the ground eventually

your tie rod nut looks like it's falling off lol

it's fine, did the same to my last 2500. I had to cut part of the bolt head flat to get it in without removing the bed, just saved time.

probably would be fine with 500cca

Tried to take my front bilseteins off to properly lift the truck with a spindle (2wd) and when I was removing the nut after compressing the spring the shaft inside broke and made a giant hydraulic fluid mess on my floor and caused me to get stuck buying an overpriced stock strut local since nobody has anything around me and bilsteins are on some national shortage

2015 2wd Sierra Currently I have the front lifted with a spacer+bilsteins on highest setting so of course it is very stiff up front. Trying to figure out the correct way to return to factory geometry up front so I can add coil overs and keep my ride quality. Truck right now is lifted 3.8ish inches and I would like to keep it there. Is there any downsides to a spindle lift, without cv angles to worry about. https://www.americantrucks.com/chevy-max-trac-3in-lift-spindles-extended-brake-lines-0717-2wd.html or is there no way around moving the lower control arm mounting point to fully fix ride quality? https://zoneoffroad.com/products/45-in-lift-kit-2014-2018-chevygmc-silveradosierra-1500-rwd

world record dyno numbers you got yourself a factory freak my friend

yes there is prob 1/2" of thread above it

the front is probably 2.5"

yes.

yes

ask katskinz if they make an ugly ass red

if you have 4 cyl mode turned off there is no check engine lights

I doubt any cold air intake does anything to begin with

my vac pump was dying is why I deleted it, since I have 4 cyl mode turned off anyway and deleting it is 10 bucks/the brakes feel better without it. If you intake is for the stock tb you would at least need a new coupler since this one is bigger I imagine

the 6.2 throttle body is cheap on amazon, I bought it and air raid 200-911 to connect it to the stock air box I just used 3/8 heater line to connect the intake to the brake booster since I deleted my vac pump. You can just do that and run it wherever and not buy the pcv line

That looks like me

why would opening a cutout make your boost go down

sorry meant the stock 5.3 tube wont fit the 6.2 tb local tuner

didnt relearn since truck is already tuned, the intake tube wont fit the size and angle of the tb are different, I just bought the air raid tube for the 6.2 It comes with the valve cover fittings. You can just use 3/8" vac line for the crank case one, or buy the actual fitting. I didnt even try to mess with the foam just slapped intake on