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Adding oem sliding rear window

viperdad
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viperdad Enthusiast

viperdad

Posted
Posted

I just got delivery of a new at4 but it doesn't have sunroof or rear sliding window. I am going to change the overhead console to one with the switch for the rear window as its the only way to add a garage remote and from another topic on this forum it appears to be plug and play for the remote to work. However, I recently took down the console and noticed a large plug with cable in it unused on top of the console, as you can see in the pictures, and I was wondering if you guys know what this is for? I hope I can buy the sliding rear window and simply plug and play at both ends.

Has anyone done this yet or know of anyone who has?

What is that unused plug for?

18e545a7-b4b4-466a-b438-cd4194cb0cb0.jpg

d1b1df36-669a-40ad-9c5e-7dfe5b63c0a2.jpg

RWTJR Enthusiast

RWTJR

Posted
Posted

I suggest you read this 217 page thread about the sliding rear window leaks before you decide to install an OEM rear slider.

 

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/216705-rear-window-leak/

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed

  • Like 2
viperdad Enthusiast

viperdad

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks but that doesn’t really worry me, I just sold my 19’ LT TB and never had a single issue with it through its weekly wash, plus very few rainy days where I live. I need that window for work.

  • 2 months later...
Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted (edited)

Doable? Probably but not an easy task for a DIY'r as they are set in urethane and best done by a professional with the proper tools to cut out the existing glass properly and mix the urethane (2 part system).  I am told the tools to cut the urethane are quite pricey as when the replaced the ws in my 2015 the left theirs in my garage and were happy when I called them to tell them I had it.  The person answering the phone said that was a very expensive piece of equipment and they had no idea the installer left it behind as he came 100 miles to install it and had to come back and get it.

I am guessing it will be very expensive for the window + the install as dealer will not do glass, they call a pro. robots set the rear and front glass in the factory.

Edited by elcamino
  • 4 months later...
Jerry Palomba New Member

Jerry Palomba

Posted
Posted
On 4/27/2021 at 12:56 AM, viperdad said:

I just got delivery of a new at4 but it doesn't have sunroof or rear sliding window. I am going to change the overhead console to one with the switch for the rear window as its the only way to add a garage remote and from another topic on this forum it appears to be plug and play for the remote to work. However, I recently took down the console and noticed a large plug with cable in it unused on top of the console, as you can see in the pictures, and I was wondering if you guys know what this is for? I hope I can buy the sliding rear window and simply plug and play at both ends.

Has anyone done this yet or know of anyone who has?

What is that unused plug for?

18e545a7-b4b4-466a-b438-cd4194cb0cb0.jpg

d1b1df36-669a-40ad-9c5e-7dfe5b63c0a2.jpg

I’m interested myself were you able to change out to a power slider? Just got a 2021 AT4 like many others had to settle buying with lesser trim. 

  • 2 months later...
Luke44 New Member

Luke44

Posted
Posted

Does anyone have an update if they were able to get the OEM rear slider installed? And how it was done.

  • 8 months later...
Holyfetch New Member

Holyfetch

Posted
Posted

I know this post is old but for anyone looking to do this in the future I can confirm that this is possible. Regardless of what a dealer etc may tell you, it’s completely possible. That being said, have no idea if that means it’s universally possible but I was able to do it with my 2020, 3500 SLT crew cab…your experience may differ. I was also confident in tackling this as I used to own an auto glass repair shop and have the skills and tools still to swap the glass myself. 

Before diving in I first verified that I had the window motor pigtail behind the back seat. It’s located on the passenger side and was simply being held in place with the cable stay on one of the unused motor mounting studs on the back wall.
 

Once I confirmed that it was there I opted to source the overhead console before ordering additional parts. That way I would only be out the expense for It, vs. the full $700ish it cost me to complete the swap. 


My original overhead console was the basic no frills version without the home link setup etc. I was able to pick up a version from a junk yard that had the home link setup and power sliding window button from I believe a 2021 AT4. Once in hand I was able to pull the original console out and test the new one. With test light in hand I was able to confirm that the pigtail behind the seat was receiving power from the new window switch, alternating power to either side of the plug depending on which way the window switch was operating. 
 

Based off this info I ordered all the parts I needed from one of the online gmc dealers and completed the install today. 
 

The only hiccup in the entire process was the rear passenger pillar panel had to be trimmed a tad to accommodate the track on the new window. There must be a different panel that went into trucks that have the window installed at the factory. But a bit of quick work with a utility knife I was able to trim just a tad off to clear. Otherwise everything was plug and play. 
 

And before anyone jumps on the “factory sliders leak” boat…I also completed the tech service bulletin on fixing the issue while I did the install. For me the convenience of being able to access my bed shell from inside the cab is far more important than the potential for leaks now. Especially as I’m confident in my skills in swapping the windows and completing the service bulletin as directed. 
 

hope this helps the next guy looking to do this swap in the future. 

  • Like 1
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  • 7 months later...
webba495 New Member

webba495

Posted
Posted
On 10/8/2022 at 4:56 PM, Holyfetch said:

Good Work!  Can you show the parts list?  Did you follow an install procedure or did you already know what to do since you are in the business?

  • 2 years later...
bryant1tristain Enthusiast

bryant1tristain

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

This is my experience on my truck. The process may be different with your own vehicle. Some trucks are prewired completely some are half way wired some don't have any of the wiring. In my case my truck was half wired (from the overhead console down to the driver kick panel, but not populated in the driver side fuse box). My driver side fuse box did not have pins for either relays or the fuse. I can not speak on what the process would be like if you truck is completely prewired, but if none of the wiring is present this will get you really close.

You can opt out of purchasing the over head console if you want to put a momentary switch somewhere in your truck. 

Parts List

  • 85011747 Glass (2019-2026)
  • 84400171 Motor
  • 19301518 Motor connector (only needed if your truck is not prewired)
  • (3) m6x1 nuts (some trucks do not have the threaded studs in the backwall, you can either use nut-serts and bolts or self tapping screws)
  • (1) m6x1x18 bolt ( use to attach regulator gear to motor)
  • (2) 2ps10  five pin relays  
  • (2) 88069 pig tails (i ordered them from O'reillys.) 

19-22.5 (non refresh model/ j21 22my only) 

  • 86818244 very dark atmosphere with sunroof 
  • 86818236 very dark atmosphere with out sunroof 
  • 84903340 dark ash grey with sunroof
  • 86818235 dark ash grey without sunroof 
  • 86818242 black with sunroof 
  • 86818234 black without sunroof

2022.5-2026 (refresh models/ j22 22my only)

  • 85070619 black without sunroof
  • 84737330 black with sunroof
  • 84737324 very dark atmosphere without sunroof
  • 84737332 very dark atmosphere with sunroof
  • 84737323 dark ash grey without sunroof
  • 85070628 dark ash grey with sunroof

 

22 model year is iffy, I suggest scanning the QR code on your vin plate( in drivers door) and check if you have j22 or j21 rpo code. If you have a 23+ custom even though it appears you have the old dash you have the new communication technology so you will need to use a 22.5 and up overhead console. 

 

Obviously you will need to get the glass installed. I suggest getting a professional to do it and price will vary. 

In my case the glass company removed the rear seat for install I asked them not to reinstall to make it easier to get all the wiring done. Charged me 250.My headliner harness already had wires running down from the over head console to behind the glove box, continuing on too the driver kick well area. If yours does not have them you will need to either purchase a headliner harness or populate them in your current harness or mount a momentary switch . These wires will be your relay trigger. 

Pin 5 on the overhead console connector is the open signal wire and pin 6 is the close signal wire.

Under the passenger side of the dash close to the kick panel their is a large connector where the headliner meets the dash harness. pin 23 (close) and 52 (open) this is where I chose to cut the wires on the dash side of the harness and extended them to the rear cab wall. Run your wires as you see fit, I ran mine up alone the passenger side door opening frame under neath the carpet and plastic trim. I pulled a positive and off my amplifier wire and grounded to two of the studs on the cab wall. You can either run a wire directly from the battery or you can pull power from the passenger side fuse box. Your truck your choice just be smart and add a fuse. If your switch works backwards swap the trigger wires at the relay or the wires going to your motor.

 

Relay pin out for both relays

  • 85 trigger from overhead console
  • 87 positive (b+)
  • 87a ground (-)
  • 30 to motor 
  • 86 ground (-)

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

Edited by bryant1tristain
added more information regarding newer vehicles and corrected grammar

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