Jump to content

2000 Z71 Limited slip questions


Recommended Posts

Posted

 

:P Hi, i have a 2000 gmc 4x4 which i bought used, i went through the rpo codes in the glove compartment and i could not find one for a g80 locking rear diff,this is upsetting because i thought that all trucks with the Z71 package were equiped with a locking rear diff, full skid plates,46mm shocks etc etc. I mean there isn't much point to dropping the cash on the z71 package if it doesn't have a locker, this is the main item that makes it slighty more "off-road" capable. Is there any other codes i can use to find out if the truck is actually z71 equiped? is it possible the dealer did not throughly investigate the packages the truck came with, and somebody passed it off as having the z71 package, by slapping a couple stickers on it? Function wise it does not appear to have a lsd but im not positive, i know i could easily tell by popping the rear cover, but id rather not if i don't have to. Advice needed on how i can find out if it truely does have the off road package. :cheers:

Posted

If its a Z71, "Z71" will be one of the RPOs listed on the RPO sticker in the glove box, along with G80 if it has the locker. I am not sure if you can get a Z71 without a locker, it may be possible. But check that sticker in the glove box for the Z71 code, not the bedsides. Oh, my Z85 has an open diff and still required synthetic.

Posted

yes it has the Z71 rpo, but sadly no g80, i don't know who the heck wouldn't get a locker if they buy the Z71 package, then it really would only be skid plates :P Oh well i'll pull the cover tommarrow to find out for sure unless anyone can come up with a better plan, in the case of no lsd ill just have to get ahold of powertrax :cheers:

Posted

Yeah, believe it or not, in 2000 you could order the Z72 "offroad" with an open diff. The G80 "locker" was an option when I special ordered my truck. All 2000's LD trucks require a synthetic 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil, with the G80 the gear oil also needs special friction modifiers.

 

Easy way to tell without pulling the rear cover off is to just jack up one side of the rear axle and put it on a jackstand. Now see if the truck can drive off! This is also a good way to see if your G80 is working right, as on pavement, cement, or hard ground the G80 is quite capable of driving off the jackstand.

 

Actually, the PowerTrax NoSlip might work better anyway. At least you will never have to worry about limited slip additives like I do. The correct NoSlip part number is:

 

92-0786-3005

 

I think you can also get an Auburn Gear unit too. Good luck! :P

Posted

"Z71" is basically just a tool for dealers to try to get higher markup out of vehicles sold from what I can tell. I think this might have changed in 2004, but I could be mistaken.

 

Anyways, it's ultimatley a $300 decal.

Posted

The Z71 package adds skid plates, different shocks, the sticker, and some sort of "jounce" bumpers - basically a $300 addition to a 4x4 truck. On my 2002 the G80 was an option, and so were the 265 Firestones, fender flares, etc etc. The Z71 package doesn't do too much for you...

Posted

I will try to avoid getting into the whole "what are Z-71s available with" argument.

But they were/are available with or without G80 locking differential. Check for the RPO code, if it's not there it wasn't originally equipped with it.

 

Common misconceptions are:

Z-71s all have G80

Z-71s all have auto trannys

Z-71s all have 3.73 or lower rear diffs

(I had one truck that disproved all 3 of these, a 95 Ext. Cab 5.7L 5 speed with 3.42s open diff)

All Z-71s are short wheel-base

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • PCM?  These don't have a "PCM".  Powertrain Control Module.  They have an ECM (Engine Control Module) and TCM (Transmission Control Module).   Do you mean update the radio?     You can check what version you have in the settings page.  Should be Y181 but there might be a newer build they can update it to.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...