Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi, all - new to the forum. Have owned my Sierra half ton for a few months now after years of Toyota trucks (very glad I made the switch)

 

Question regarding transmission that I couldn’t find an answer to on previous posts

 

My truck has the 8 spd transmission.  Every so often it will down shift upon acceleration pretty harshly

 

Has anyone heard of any damage to transmission due to this?   I don’t care that it does it if it won’t cause any harm to it but was curious if there have been any reported issues as a result of this

 

Thank you

Matt

Edited by Matt G
Grammar
Posted (edited)

GM claims the problems with the 8-sp transmission do not fall under the factory warranty, as it is a design defect and not a manufacturing defect.

Edited by elcamino
Posted

Check for any kinked lines as I believe there is a Service bulletin for that.

Could be a contributing factor.

Posted

Thank you both. Will do on the kinked lines, and I did read that about it being a ‘design flaw’ vs manufacturing.  They got creative on that one 

 

If lines aren’t kinked, suppose I will just drive it and worry about it if something happens

 

Matt

Posted
5 hours ago, dgstarr63 said:

My 2021 does it also, so far dealer has not been able to fix i t and GM has no interest in doing anything about it. 

This is good to know. With that in mind, am not going to worry about it, as it seems there isn’t much that can be done  other than checking for kinks as was mentioned above

Posted

I have been told by a buddy who owns a 2016 with the 8 speed, that “he” allows the truck to run for 2 to 3 minutes and it never jerks or chars him after that, but if he jumps in it, starts it up and drives that’s when it’s does it??  Idk both my older K2 trucks did it and it’s the main reason why I bought the 10 speed.  Always had doubt/worried about the transmission in the back of my head. 

Posted

Suppose if it has been around since K2 body style and no known failures, it’s an annoyance but not a reason to worry (at least I hope).  Fingers crossed that it holds up.  Good call on going 10 spd with that in mind though 

 

Thanks everyone 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...