Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2011 GMC Sierra Denali (3500HD, but that doesn't really matter)...rear door handle broke.  Replaced with new door handle and didn't think about trying the door before putting the door panel back on.  Put the door panel back on, shut the door and tried to open it and it won't open with outer handle or the inner handle.  Any ideas on how to either get the door panel off with the door closed or open the door in order to get the door panel off.  I have checked the videos on youtube with no success.

Posted (edited)

You are going to have to get the panel off with the door closed. I have done this on Chryslers and GMs. It's a bit  , you should prolly remove the seat bottom and possibly the seat back for more room. What happened was you didn't finish connecting all the rods inside the door. There is the lock rod from inside the door, a rod from the inside door handle and a rod from the outside door handle. After you get the panel off get a GOOD light in the door and an inspection mirror, about 2 to 3 inches in diameter and be prepared to go to war. It's tough to connect the door latch end of the rods.

I missed the part where you had an Non OEM handle. I have run into that too.

Edited by dna9656
Posted

I saw something fall out when pulling the panel off, but only found a small piece of foam and one of the panel clips.  Once I got everything put back on and gave up for the night (we're getting feeder bands from Hurricane Ida), I saw this clip under the edge of the truck.  Part # shows it to be "Clip, Front Side Door Outside Handle (Retains Handle to Base)"

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-clip-20828232.html

 

Now, to pull the panel back off (or get the door open somehow) and find out exactly where this clip goes

 

 

20210829_175550.jpg

Posted

UPDATE:  Was finally able to get back on this door issue tonight.  Door panel can be pulled with the door closed, but it is rough.  I was able to get a panel removal tool at the bottom corner of the door and had enough leverage to pry the panel out enough to pop the clip loose.  I worked my way around the edge of the panel, popping each clip loose as I got to one.  I had to move the front seat as far forward as it would go and adjust the back rest as far forward as it would go and slide the panel toward the front.  Once the panel was removed, I was able to reach in the door and push the rod connected to the outside handle down and the door opened.  I pulled the new handle off and compared to the OEM handle and there was enough of a difference in the new and old actuators on the handles (the part that pushes the rod down to open the door) that the new handle wouldn't push the rod down enough to activate the latch.  I pulled the actuator from the broken OEM handle and put it on the new handle and re-installed the handle.  Closed the door (this time with the panel off) and was able to open the door from the outside.  Reinstalled the panel and tried the inner and outer handles both and they both were able to open the door.  I don't know what the issue was with the inner handle not opening the door, but everything is good now.

 

Now, to move on to the other 3 doors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 6,945 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...