Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello from nothern sweden, 

I'm a fairly new owner of a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 5,3 liter V8. A couple of months ago I noticed that my temp gauge would'nt rise at all. I changed the temp sensor and after that it behaved as expected. Rising to just shy of 210 degrees (98 celcius). Yesterday the needle suddently dropped to the bottom after reaching normal operating temperature. I have driven it several times after that: when I turn the engine off and turn on the ignition, the needle will often (not always) indicate the expected temp when the engine is warm. Sometimes it stays att the bottom of the scale. Other times I can start the veichle and drive for a couple of minutes with the gauge showing the expected temp just for it to die suddently.

 

Am I the victim of a bad replecement temp sensor or should I worry about someting else? 

 

Probaly unrelated: the night before I first noticed the problem I had tried to reconnect some extra lights that the previous owner had disconnected, and I attached a ground cable in the engine room.

 

(I have tried to disconnect the battery for more than an hour, the problem still returns). 

 

Thanks in advance. 

Posted

It sounds like it could be a bad stepper motor in the gauge cluster causing the needle to not operate properly

Posted

I agree with Evan above, but it could also be in the circuit connecting the sensor to the gauge, or a bad ground Check your grounds in that circuit, make sure they are clean and tight.

Replacing a stepper motor is pretty easy, you pull the instrument panel, turn it over there may or may not be a rear cover (I have an 06 Avalanche but I don't remember) anyway the stepper motors are about the size of a US Half Dollar coin you can get them on Amazon or E bay they are soldered in I believe; If you don't know how to solder on a circuit board you might ask your friends for some help This procedure is most likely on the forum here or other forums if I'm wrong on how to do this. My instrument cluster had many issues, no lighting, stepper motors didn't work; I replaced the stepper motors and LEDs but I ended up buying a used one off the internet, I was trying to get the Escalade EXT panel because it had a transmission (lower left corner) temp gauge but my source didn't have one on hand at the time.

Good Luck!

Posted

Thank you both! I talked to a friend last night and he thought that my fiddling with the wires to the extra light might have something to do with it, that I might have disturbed the connection to the sensor in some way, causing a bad ground. I'll look closely at that first, and the secondly at the gauge itself. 

Posted

Update: I removed the contact of the temp sensor, turned the cable a few times (looked twisted): now the problem has yet to show itself again. Temp readings are nominal :) 

 

Hope it stays this way!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 7,877 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...