Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am going to start towing a 3k # boat regularly.  I am looking at getting an aux. transmission cooler as well as a lower temp thermostat.  It looks like for my year model truck the thermostat is a combo, of the housing integrated to the actual thermostat.  Can anyone tell me which thermostat is currently in an unmodified 2018 Sierra 5.3L Direct Injection?

Which thermostat would you guys recommend?  I live in Texas along the gulf coast, so it gets pretty warm down here.

 

In regards to trans coolers.  I was looking at the Mishimoto one.  It is super nice especially since it comes with all the clean brackets.  However, that comes with a price tag.  I was wondering if anyone here had other suggestions on trans coolers.  Thank you in advance!

Posted

A stock engine coolant thermostat is 207 degrees. You can run a 180 degree thermostat but just be aware that once it heat soaks that thermostat doesn't really mean much because the factory fan settings are still set for the stock thermostat. They won't even come on until it's past 225 degrees, which is still fine for these engines.

 

If you haven't yet, just remove the thermostat on the transmission cooler line going into the transmission. This is a very common mod that people do on the transmission. It will drop the temps an easy 30-40 degrees without even using an aftermarket cooler. See if you need a cooler after doing that first. If you transmission temps stay between 170-200 while towing you are doing great.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

i would upgrade to the 6.2 Radiator, 175 t-stat from Katec, tune fans for 188-190 degrees, re-tune transmission, TCC lock up points activate at 4th or 5th-6th gear for towning, zero tcc slip, and tighten the clutch pressures 10%.

 

then do 3000 mile oil changes, and trans flush every 8000 miles...

bolt open the flapper valve in the muffler for full flow and disable the AFM

 

#1 upgrade is thermostat delete in trans

Edited by pokismoki
Posted

It'll be pretty spendy to tune a 2018, he may not want to go through all that.

Posted

Thanks guys.  I think everyone can agree I need to go ahead and remove the thermostat on the transmission line.  I am assuming that is on the return line back to the transmission?  I guess I need to do a bit of research on where that thermostat is located.  Thank you again.

 

5 hours ago, pokismoki said:

what does it run about to tune the 2018 and newer stuff?

 

Posted
4 hours ago, Blue65 said:

Thanks guys.  I think everyone can agree I need to go ahead and remove the thermostat on the transmission line.  I am assuming that is on the return line back to the transmission?  I guess I need to do a bit of research on where that thermostat is located.  Thank you again.

 

 

 

It's bolted to the drivers side of the transmission body. 

 

 

Go to the fourth post on page on of this thread. A new option. 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, pokismoki said:

what does it run about to tune the 2018 and newer stuff?

This kinda depends on if it's a 6 speed or 8 speed truck too.

 

I'm using HP Tuners as an example because they offer the TCM tuning for 8 speeds.

 

It's $200 for the PCM, then it's $200 for the TCM plus the TCM unlock service and I think that is about $200. Then if you had to buy HPT it's another $300.

 

Trucks with a 6 speed wouldn't require the TCM service so knock that price down some.

Posted

I'm going to add here than the lower water thermostat only throttles lower IF the radiator is large enough to permit that as it does in my case. In which case the fan setting is mute.....unless stalled in traffic. In which case you are no worse off than before on the worst day and better off all others. Give it some thought. It will come to you. 

  • Like 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I'm going to add here than the lower water thermostat only throttles lower IF the radiator is large enough to permit that as it does in my case. In which case the fan setting is mute.....unless stalled in traffic. In which case you are no worse off than before on the worst day and better off all others. Give it some thought. It will come to you. 

just keep your airspeed up, and the thermostat will do its job to perfection.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

I replaced the transmission tstat with Superior transmission  part# STP-STL010.

 

Works great.  Steady Temps of 150.  Thanks for the help.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,979
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    rayredbone
    Newest Member
    rayredbone
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 515 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...