Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

New to page thanks for any advise. 97 Sierra 4wd. Transfercase motor just clicks (even with ignition off) lights flash then stay on 4wd low. Never engages. Has new tccm, encoder/motor, switch on dash, front diff acuator, all fluids a full. Any ideas?

Edited by Debeard77
Posted
51 minutes ago, Debeard77 said:

New to page thanks for any advise. 97 Sierra 4wd. Transfercase motor just clicks (even with ignition off) lights flash then stay on 4wd low. Never engages. Has new tccm, encoder/motor, switch on dash, front diff acuator, all fluids a full. Any ideas?

 

 

 

   Hi.

 

Can you provide more specific information?

 

How did this problem come about?

Can you shift between different ranges at all?

What do you mean that it clicks even when ignition is off? What makes it click? Pressing buttons?

 

Did this problem happen before you replaced all that stuff, or did it happen after you replaced all the parts?

Posted (edited)

Just got the truck not long ago was doing before parts. With the key out the transfer case motor will  keep "clicking" like its trying to shift the case..there is no 4wd at all with not go in low or high. Have to take the fuse out or will just go and go.  Could the case be broke stuck in 2wd?

Edited by Debeard77
Posted

Also, when you shift the transfer case, are you following the instructions in the owners manual?

 

Simply pressing the tranfer case shift buttons is not the correct procedure. There are other necessary steps that must be taken if you want to change the tranfer case settings.

Posted

try disconnecting the battery. sometimes that works to reset the system. the only time I have seen that happen was on a 2000 Blazer with a bad battery. new battery and the system reset

Posted
9 minutes ago, Debeard77 said:

Just changed it no flakes. What steps are u speaking of?

 

 

I cant tell you what your vehicle needs. Here is what my rig wants, in order to shift from 4L to 2H:

 

1)  Engine running.

2) Transmission in neutral.

3) Vehicle rolling forward or backwards at 1 or 2 MPH.

4) Press transfer case shift button.

 

Your rig might want a different procedure.

 

 

Posted

if that doesn't work remove the motor from the tc and see if you can shift it manually. if you can't you found the problem

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

if that doesn't work remove the motor from the tc and see if you can shift it manually. if you can't you found the problem

 

 

Ya, that's a good idea. At least he could get it into 2H so that it can be driven.

 

It may shift by hand more easily of the transmission is in neutral. (might want to chalk the tires).

 

 

 

Posted

I don't know if its possible to install the motor incorrectly but thats a possibility as well

Posted

Pulled the encoder motor of transfercase I can shift it manually. Does anyone know how hard it should be to shift? Seemed like it took a lot of force to shift it.

Posted

it may be normal with out the truck rolling. with the encoder motor off but connected does it work when you try different modes? does it still click when shut off? if it seems to be working properly manually put it in 2hi and reinstall the motor and see if it works

Posted

the manual shift tcs sometimes take a good tug to change modes so as long as it does shift its probably ok. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,916
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    erickn520
    Newest Member
    erickn520
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 490 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi All, I operate my 2021 3500 SLT most of the time with the tailgate off and in a crate because I have a slide-in camper. However, at least once a year, I take the camper off and put the tailgate back on. Recently I installed the tailgate, but had a hard time getting the connector bail to swing to the fully latched position. The connector seems to fully seat, and everything works, but the bail doesn’t swing to fully latched position.  It swings almost there but stops and I am afraid to push it any harder.    Does anyone have any advice on cleaning or lubrication or anything else I should be doing?  i know how to properly operate the connector. During the time the tailgate and connector are off, i have a double plastic bag over the truck connector secured with rubber bands to keep it clean, but it still had some dust in it this time when I blew it out with compressed air. I didn’t want to spray it with anything other than air without doing some research. Thanks. 
    • There are a lot of spammer's that do that, quote something and add some commentary to make it seem legit, but modify the quoted text a bunch making sure when posted it's long enough to be "click to expand", and either immediately insert a spam link, or come back after some time and edit it to add the spam link.
    • Hello @jaszr2 Do you have a link for the item? I put a replacement bumper on my truck and consequently had to relocate the shutters. I studied on them a while, and figured if you left a couple key blades, you could get most of the airflow with probably no throwing codes.  
    • In the 6.6 gas thread, I added information in my fluid change thread about these gauges and temperatures. With very limited data, it so far looks like ~30 degrees difference between front and rear.
    • I know; crap pictures.   Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit.   I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away.   In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...