Trailer brake control

[poppy510]

Also, just because they are self adjusting does not mean they do. Jack up each wheel and confirm.

 

I can almost guarantee it is not you controller but is trailer brake wiring or adjustment.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by poppy510
Wreckless Wager

[Pipelnr]

I have jacked up the rv and adjusted all brakes so it is either the controller or a bad connection. I am going to replace the pig tail and try that

[Pipelnr]

11 minutes ago, poppy510 said:

You need to be testing the current to each brake magnet now that you have confirmed voltage. You should be getting about 3A to each wheel. Easiest way to do this is to pull the trailer brake emergency disconnect pin (the cable that you attach to your bumper with the chains so that the brakes engage if the trailer disconnects from the hitch). This will apply max current to each wheel. Of course the trailer battery needs to be connected when you do this. A clamp on ammeter can be used to confirm 3A to each wheel (12A total leaving the battery.

 

There are a number of things that can mess up electric trailer brakes: bad magnets, poor mechanical adjustment of brakes, bad wiring, loose connections...  If the magnets are good and are getting 3A, start looking at the mechanicals.

 

On 4/4/2022 at 5:03 PM, newdude said:

 

 

Any warning messages on the truck like "Service Trailer Brake"?

 

 

 

12 minutes ago, poppy510 said:

You need to be testing the current to each brake magnet now that you have confirmed voltage. You should be getting about 3A to each wheel. Easiest way to do this is to pull the trailer brake emergency disconnect pin (the cable that you attach to your bumper with the chains so that the brakes engage if the trailer disconnects from the hitch). This will apply max current to each wheel. Of course the trailer battery needs to be connected when you do this. A clamp on ammeter can be used to confirm 3A to each wheel (12A total leaving the battery.

 

There are a number of things that can mess up electric trailer brakes: bad magnets, poor mechanical adjustment of brakes, bad wiring, loose connections...  If the magnets are good and are getting 3A, start looking at the mechanicals.

There are no warning messages. I will test the amps at the brakes. This is the first time anyone ever told me how many amps I should have, thank you. The magnets all seem good. I am thinking now I may have corrosion on wiring connection at the pig tail and will test as soon as possible. Thanks

[Pipelnr]

Thank you I will check 

[Greyhound6.2]

I have the same problem, the integrated brake controller on these trucks just plain suck. My previous tow vehicle a Grand Cherokee would lock the trailer brakes up easily if the gain was over 7 (aftermarket controller). back to back previous tow vehicle gain on 6 vs current 20 sierra with the gain on 10 the previous vehicle stops better/harder on the same tandem axle 6Klb trailer. I have also tried with my buddies 21 silverado 2500 and his stops just as poorly as my 20 1500 .  I have been able to get better stopping power by adjusting the trailer brakes manually to the point they drag a little more than they really should to get reasonable brake force at a moderate gain of 7. also Just bought a brand new trailer zero miles on it and the brakes still suck and needed manual adjustment.....BTW dexter auto adjusting brakes rarely actually do much in the way of auto adjusting.  

 

 

 

You can check the current draw of the trailer brakes they should be somewhere near 3 amps at 12V per brake magnet but I doubt that is the issue. 

[Pipelnr]

I have replaced the pig tail running from the truck to the rv. This greatly helped, I have manually adjusted the rv brakes, but the controller still sucks. Does anyone know how to delete the intergrated brake control and install a aftermarket controller?

[Greyhound6.2]

8 hours ago, Pipelnr said:

I have replaced the pig tail running from the truck to the rv. This greatly helped, I have manually adjusted the rv brakes, but the controller still sucks. Does anyone know how to delete the intergrated brake control and install a aftermarket controller?

I have been kicking around trying to do that curious if I can cut the brake circuit going to the trailer or dummy it out with a fake load and replace the trailer brake feed with the aftermarket controller output......nothing is ever that easy though 

 

I would want the stock trailer app to still work though I like the integrated TPMS reading on the trailer tires  

[Pipelnr]

I have done some research and found this on a GM mechanic site

 

      Document ID: 5475486 2022-04-05, 5:12 PM
 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 - 4WD |
Sierra Limited, Sierra 2500/3500, Silverado LD, Silverado 2500/3500 Service Manual 12106552 | Brakes | Preliminary Information | Document ID: 5475486
#PIT5282F: Procedure for Installation of an Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller or In Lieu of Factory Trailer Brake Controller - (Dec 19, 2019)
Subject: Procedure for Installation of an Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller or In Lieu of Factory Trailer Brake Controller
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https://gsitlc.ext.gm.com/gsi/showDoc.do?pubName=Sierra Limite...key=0&vin=&from=bcpi&region=1&laborOpCode=&windowID=si822212276 Page 1 of 4

       Document ID: 5475486 2022-04-05, 5:12 PM
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     Supersession Statement
© 2022 General Motors. All rights reserved. This PI was superseded to add the 2020 models. Please discard PIT5282E.
Condition/Concern
Some customers may request to have an aftermarket trailer brake controller added to their vehicle, OR an aftermarket trailer brake controller added in lieu of the factory integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC) (RPO JL1).
Recommendation/Instructions
 1. Obtain a trailer brake controller harness, GM Part # 23184088, as shown below.  
 
 2. Connect the harness to the MID-BEC (X61A). The MID-BEC is located under the I/P to the left of
the steering column. The harness connection point (1) is illustrated below.
 
    https://gsitlc.ext.gm.com/gsi/showDoc.do?pubName=Sierra%20Limite...key=0&vin=&from=bcpi&region=1&laborOpCode=&windowID=si822212276 Page 2 of 4

   Document ID: 5475486 2022-04-05, 5:12 PM
    
3. The trailer brake controller harness consist of 4 blunt cut wires and a label that calls out the wire colors and each wire’s function, also shown below. Use these 4 blunt cut wires to connect to the aftermarket trailer brake control.
  Four Blunt Cut Wires
Dark Blue Red/Green White/Blue Black
Circuit 47 Circuit 242 Circuit 3691 Circuit 1050
Brake Output To Trailer Battery Power (30 AMP) Brake Signal
Ground
                         4. Perform this step ONLY if equipped with RPO JL1 where the customer is requesting the factory trailer brake system be bypassed to add an aftermarket trailer brake controller. Locate connector X185 Or X138 (varies with vehicle build; refer to SI), which is near the underhood fuse block, terminal 32. Circuit 47 ends at the body harness side of X185 or X138 terminal 32, which comes from the X61A junction block. Obtain enough Dark Blue 12 gauge wire to run from X185 or X138 to the 7-way trailer connector at the bumper. Attach terminated lead part number 13327155 to one end of the Dark Blue and insert into the chassis harness side of the X185 or X138 connector terminal 32. Run the Dark Blue wire in its own conduit along the frame to the 7-way trailer connector at the bumper. Remove circuit 47 from the 7-way trailer connector terminal “C” and tape the bare terminal and attach to the harness. Attach terminal part number 12110853, located in Delphi Tray 4, to the other end of the Dark Blue wire, with the correct weather pack seal, and insert it into the 7-way trailer connector terminal “C.”
Parts Information
     https://gsitlc.ext.gm.com/gsi/showDoc.do?pubName=Sierra%20Limite...key=0&vin=&from=bcpi&region=1&laborOpCode=&windowID=si822212276 Page 3 of 4

   Document ID: 5475486 2022-04-05, 5:12 PM
 23184088 Trailer Brake Controller Harness 1
Warranty Information
If the customer wishes to have an aftermarket brake controller installed in their vehicle, it would be considered as a Customer Pay option.
     GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
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       https://gsitlc.ext.gm.com/gsi/showDoc.do?pubName=Sierra%20Limite...key=0&vin=&from=bcpi&region=1&laborOpCode=&windowID=si822212276 Page 4 of 4
 

[Jrodpic]

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". 
 

LOL