Jump to content

NON-WORKING LIFTGATE ON A 2017 SUBURBAN PREMIER

WallaceB

By WallaceB
in New Member Introductions

 Share

Recommended Posts

WallaceB New Member

WallaceB

Posted
Posted

We just bought this truck and really love it. Should have really checked feature before leaving the lot, but oh-well. the liftgate on the truck will not work at all, by the fob or the button on the overhead console. The electric button in the outside handle will unlock the liftgate but in will not activate the liftgate. Have checked the fuses and can't find any blown. I really hope somebody has some idea about this.

  • 1 month later...
WallaceB New Member

WallaceB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

2017 premier- the latch release on the outside handle works to unlock the liftgate but that is all that works by remote or the button on the overhead console. I have new struts but have not installed them yet. Thats next in line as soon as the wife returns from vacation

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Core-Lokt
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      I know; crap pictures.   Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit.   I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away.   In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations. 
    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Naaa
    • Grumpy Bear
      Vehicle Payments

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      You don't want to become predictable now, do you? 😏
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Fully warm, coolant temp >194, closed loop.   Run time can be anywhere from just reached operating temperature to having driven 30+ miles.   The O2 chart (which is a feature I just discovered after reading) for the bad idle seems to be "most" of the time. For the little time I've been watching it (scanning and driving! watchout!) I can't seem to isolate any cause or condition yet.   It definitely idles rougher sometimes than others and so far what I've seen is the rougher idles are always rich. But not enough to set a CEL.   In other news I replaced the starter solenoid. Everything on this truck is such a PITA. Starter "snout" is mangled up with the torque converter inspection cover which is tangled up with hard cooling lines and the driveshaft. But I got 'er done without too much swearing...I just go into everything now knowing it's going to be a frustrating mess.   The starter solenoid replacement kicks off the next round of work: AC, injector rebuild, cat, exhaust. I'm just going to do it all. But first:   I don't know what my fuel pressures are. I can't definitively say the issue is the injector without first verifying fuel pressures and any leakdown. I "rented" a test kit ($199.99 at O'Really's ...intentional misspelling). They don't "rent" tools anymore, they charge you for the tool and then you return it when you're done. No joke. It is listed as a rental on the receipt but the guy told me there's no difference between renting and buying  now, you just return it when you're done and they refund the credit card. Mmmkay, whatever.   I will rule out fuel pressure issues (too much), and any leaking (that's how I'll know the problem is inside the intake). I think someone said the return line could be plugged or not flowing and that could cause high fuel pressure (and too much fuel being pushed through injectors). I'll cross that bridge if I get high readings.   As of now I'm ready to tear off the intake cover, extract the injector, and have it sent off to be rebuilt just so I can rule that out.
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      What are the conditions of this rich idle? Warm or cold engine? Run time? Does every idle look like this or only sometimes?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...