Jump to content

Tuning question

B2usmc
 Share

Recommended Posts

B2usmc New Member

B2usmc

Posted
Posted

Truck is a 99 Sierra, has 01 Silverado ECU. I have a built 5.3, 228r cam, 4l80, headers, tsp valvetrain...truck runs good. It was tuned prior to me owning it (I assume since it runs perfectly). There are a few things I need to change (airbag light after Escalade cluster swap and stupid battery warning). Do I need a tuner like HP tuners or is there a way to avoid spending that money? I also don't want to get HP tuners and lose the tune that is on it because it runs well and I'm not situated to both buy a tuner and have a custom tune built at the moment. 

shakenfake Senior Enthusiast

shakenfake

Posted
Posted (edited)

Airbag light is soldering in a transistor and a couple of resistors onto the circuit board to get it to go away. 

 

I do not know what battery light you speak of. When I did my Denali cluster swap I only had the airbag light.

 

https://www.sc1.me/99Guages/Airbag.htm

Here is how to fix the airbag light. 

Edited by shakenfake
B2usmc New Member

B2usmc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good write up, it's unlikely I'll do that, I'm not confident enough soldering to mess with the circuit board. The battery light is flashing on 10 seconds off 5 continually. Simply put it isn't a 3 wire alternator and the computer is looking for the f terminal that doesn't exist... research says this can be turned of in a tune or I can add a wire (some have success, others don't) to the pcm. Obviously I would rather just uncheck the ses box in the tune... pretty sure I can do the same with the airbag in the tune. I'm happy to buy the hp tuner, but don't want to lose my current tune (not sure how it was tuned before I bought it)

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

HP Tuners can't do anything airbag related.

 

It can change the systems options for the alternator but I've never tried it myself to see if that does truly turn that light off.

 

HP Tuners will also not erase the current file on the truck, it can only read what is there and then change it from that point. So long as the previous tuner didn't lock the computer, you will be able to change things on it.

shakenfake Senior Enthusiast

shakenfake

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, B2usmc said:

Good write up, it's unlikely I'll do that, I'm not confident enough soldering to mess with the circuit board. The battery light is flashing on 10 seconds off 5 continually. Simply put it isn't a 3 wire alternator and the computer is looking for the f terminal that doesn't exist... research says this can be turned of in a tune or I can add a wire (some have success, others don't) to the pcm. Obviously I would rather just uncheck the ses box in the tune... pretty sure I can do the same with the airbag in the tune. I'm happy to buy the hp tuner, but don't want to lose my current tune (not sure how it was tuned before I bought it)

If you'd be comfortable sending it to me I'd be willing to do it for you. 

 

I'm confused on why you are running a different alternator then. Why not just switch to a stock one?

B2usmc New Member

B2usmc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I assume the stock harness wasn't swapped when the computer was? The harness has a 1 wire plug, I think the computer wants to see the f terminal. Good to hear about the tune...I'll probably but the HP tuner. Can I just pull the bulb.for the airbag light...it seems completely unnecessary to me.

shakenfake Senior Enthusiast

shakenfake

Posted
Posted

That should not be an issue. The harnesses between 99-02 are all the same.

Hell I put an 04 alternator in my 99 and had no issues.

 

I cannot remember if that bulb is soldered in or not. Part of me says yes but the other 1/4 says no. BUT the overall answer is no if you want to pass inspection. That light needs to come on, whether it goes off or not does not matter but they need to see the light.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...