2 Door Tahoe 4wd Shifter

[rayhawk]

I'm looking at 96-99 2 door Tahoes, and I noticed some have the 4WD manual shifter, but most have the electronic shift. Is this a trim option? The one I'm looking at has power windows and door locks, but still has the manual shifter. I don't really care much either way, I'm just wondering if there are any other features tied to the manual vs. electronic transfer case control.

[KARNUT]

About 15 years ago I had a 2 door Tahoe. It was going to be a keeper. Until I found my 92 highly modified Chevy. If memory serves it was an LS. Cloth seats and manual operating 4WD. Otherwise power windows,seats etc. I believe LT would get leather, automatic 4WD etc. I would have preferred 2WD for the mods I was preparing when I found mine. Finding the cleanest world be my priority. The equipment would be secondary.

[richard wysong]

I would prefer the manual 4wd, less things to go wrong with it IMO

[rayhawk]

Ok, I bought the 97 2 door I was looking at. Needs a ton of odds and ends fixed, just trying to figure out how to address some of them.

 

The A/C gets cold, but most of the air seems to be misdirected, as very little comes out of the vents. I ordered a manual, but just curious if anybody has any suggestions on what to look at. Blower motor seems to be working ok and hitting all the speeds.

 

Both seats are kind of messed up. The driver seat motor works, but only if you don't sit in it. I'm going to take it apart and clean it up well and re-lubricate, hopefully that resolves it. The passenger seat rocks back and forth like 2 inches, again, I'm hoping it is just a sticky mechanism that isn't seating right or a busted spring.

 

After that, I'm on to stereo, some repairs on the doors, and some cleaning.

 

 

[richard wysong]

the ac problem is probably the actuator above the gas pedal. fix the passenger seat before u take anyone for a ride, it sounds like somethings broken and seatbelts don't work if the seat breaks(voice of experience)I ended up upside down in the back seat when the seat broke in a chariot race

[rayhawk]

I got my Haynes manual, but it is not great. Where can I find an OEM type service manual, or at least something better than the Haynes book? Electronic copy is fine.

[richard wysong]

Alldata

[rayhawk]

I just noticed the a/c line is messed  up going into the firewall. Is this part of the evaporator, or is there an intermediate hard line that needs to be replaced?

Edited August 13, 2022 by rayhawk

[richard wysong]

it's part of the evaporator. not a fun job! if it still works and doesn't leak leave it alone. They make repair fittings but it's too close to the firewall to use 1. Caused by someone trying to remove the fitting with 1 wrench

[rayhawk]

Ok, we'll see what happens. Hopefully it isn't leaking.

 

On another topic, I'm replacing the interior door handles, I bought both sides from 1A Auto, the TRQ parts. I did the passenger side one first (which wasn't broken), and found that the manual lock doesn't work right. Even worse, it forces you to use the power unlock every time you want to get out, since the travel isn't sufficient, and prevents the door from opening, inside or out, unless you use the power unlock to force it. I compared the travel on the OEM and TRQ part, and found the OEM has a travel of about 7/8", whereas the TRQ is about 11/16" or so. I'm probably just going to order an OEM, just wondering if the Dorman is any better? Dorman is $13, OEM is $65.

[richard wysong]

I get them from NAPA which may be Dorman and haven't had a problem. Make sure the rod is clipped into the guide so there's not as much deflection

[rayhawk]

I looked into the Napa door handle, but they didn't seem to have the right color. Got the OEM, looks and works perfect.

 

I noticed some noise coming from the rear end, so I pulled the cover off, it looks like one of the bearings is on it's way out. I guess that's my next job. I checked the backlash, its at .008", so I don't think the R&P has seen much wear. There seems to be a lot of options for rebuild kits from Rock Auto, should I pull out the bearings to see what brand they are before I order a rebuild kit? Or are all OEM bearings Timken?

 

Also, I have the gov lock differential in there, it seems ok but I know they have a bad reputation. Should I replace it with a true trac? Or should I just leave it alone? I would rather not spend the extra money right now if I don't have to, but I don't want to risk a failure here either.

Edited August 20, 2022 by rayhawk

[rayhawk]

Ok, just to finish the story here, I finished up the rear end. The pinion bearings were both bad. I ended up buying the True Trac, Amazon had a decent deal on a "used" one, which is just one where the box was all beaten up. I bought the USA standard gear diff overhaul kit, they make one that comes with the larger carrier bearings needed for the True Trac. I will say that I had to put in about .005" less shims on each side. I think most of the difference was due to the different bearings, so make sure you get a kit with a selection of carrier shims. Now I just hear funny noises from the front end...

[rayhawk]

One of my catalytic converters started rattling, any suggestions on replacements? I see there are some cheap ones on amazon, anybody have experience with them? Also, how hard will it be to replace the rear one that is right up against the flange? I believe the forward one is making the noise, but I would just assume replace them both.

 

[richard wysong]

Shouldn't be a problem if you are doing weld ins because you would cut the flange off and weld the new 1 just up -stream of the 02 sensor. If after you need to stiffen the mounting up just weld a piece of steel between the 2 . I would just replace the bad 1, the "bubble" at the inlet of the front 1 may complicate the weld in so measure twice, cut once