Help with ball joint size

[Kyle Grasso]

I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 and I am replacing the knuckles and hubs.  I need to know the approximate diameter of the upper and lower ball joints.  I want to buy some replacement boots in case they get damaged while removing the very rusty knuckles.  Thanks 

[richard wysong]

if you just use a big hammer to strike the knuckle where the bj taper is they will pop loose without damaging the boots like a pickle fork does. Parts store will have specs on all dimensions of the bj, there may be more than 1 size that fits your truck depending on options/gvw. If you have some miles on the truck why not replace the bjs while you have it apart?

[Kyle Grasso]

Thats what I will try first but I don't think it will pop loose using the normal methods.  This truck is extremely rusty and I couldn't get the hubs to budge thats why Im replacing the knuckles as well.  Everything looks to be original and never taken out.  I was thinking of using a pickle fork to put slight tension agaist the ball joint while whacking the side with a 3lb sledge.

 

Ive already cracked the bolts loose on the ball joints and have been spraying everything down with pb blaster.  

Edited October 23, 2022 by Kyle Grasso

[richard wysong]

They will pop but may take a few good whacks, It's a taper fit so the rust isn't an issue. Have you watched the Utube vids on hub removal with an old rotor? Pop the lower bj first as the spring has tension on it then the upper as gravity ads tension

[dna9656]

As always great advice!

[Kyle Grasso]

Great advice thank you!  Ive seen the old rotor video and a couple where you knock out 2 lug studs and use a large bolt and nut to press the hub out.  Ive tried the bolt method because I don't have a rotor to sacrifice.  I do however have a pipe wrench I may be able to fit on the part the wheel studs press into.  I can then use a bar over the wrench for more leverage.  At the time I didn't want to damage the hub beyond re assembly and be stuck with the truck hanging out of the garage(doesn't fit all the way in).

 

I have 2 new knuckles, 2 new hub bearings, and new bolts because 3 of mine are so bad I could barely get a socket to fit.  Ill be attempting this again tomorrow.

Edited October 24, 2022 by Kyle Grasso

[Harley martin]

So im trying to replace my lowar ball joints for the front and my truck is loward I cant find a thred length long enough for the nut to get on along with the pin. Its a 2001 Chevy silverado 1500 and its a rwd and loward

[asilverblazer]

7 hours ago, Harley martin said:

So im trying to replace my lowar ball joints for the front and my truck is loward I cant find a thred length long enough for the nut to get on along with the pin. Its a 2001 Chevy silverado 1500 and its a rwd and loward

Assuming the truck is lowered using an aftermarket knuckle, the knuckle may not be compatible with a factory (normal) ball joint - try contacting the kit manufacturer to see what ball joint is recommend with their knuckle.

 

Try tightening the nut all the way down to pull the stud as deep into the taper as possible, then the pin. Make sure the stud and taper are both clean with no debris or rust preventing the stud from fully seating. 

 

The replacement ball joint may not be built to factory spec - try an AC/Delco one. 

[richard wysong]

Welcome to the Forum, it would be better to start a new thread than adding to 1 that is 3 years old. That said, how was it lowered? Drop spindles ?, Different springs ? If there is a real auto parts store near you that may still have the paper catalogs there are product specs listed in most. Probably on the computer too but the kid working at the chain store is just gonna try to give you whatever his computer says fits OEM. Is it possible the tapered hole was damaged during disassembly? I agree with asilverblazer's suggestions

Edited March 26 by richard wysong