2015 Suburban LTZ Rear Shock Replacement with Magnaride/Air Leveling

mikemcclain8 · December 29, 2022

Hello all, I have a 2015 Suburban LTZ with Magnaride and air leveling. The right rear shock locked up recently (both had been leaking for awhile) and after driving it for a month I decided to do something about it. A local shop quoted me $1500 for both rear shocks but also said I could probably purchase compatible shocks online and do the job myself in a weekend. So, I went with the latter choice and completed the job in 2 hours. First 1.5 hours was figuring out how to do it on the left, last 30 minutes was changing the right. Not a hard job at all but a second set of hands makes it easier.

Here are the shocks I went with at $300 for the pair: Dewinston rear air shocks, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091DZM44Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I messaged the seller with my VIN to ensure it fit and had magnaride which they confirmed.

Basic Steps (no pictures, sorry):

1. Central Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks - safety first

2. Remove rear tire.

3. Remove inner liner using torx and phillips screwdriver. I actually unscrewed the back half and pulled liner out of the way but you can fully remove if you want.

4. Disconnect wiring harness - probably the hardest part. There is a gray tab to the back of the connector on the car side that you need to press/squeeze to release the connection. I don't have a picture but you'll see it if you use a flashlight and look at where the wires enter the female pigtail.

5. Disconnect air hoses

6. 21mm socket on the back side of the top bolt, I used a socket extension to reach it, and brace against the frame. 21 mm socket on other side and loosen/remove.

7. Unscrew bottom bolt.

8. Once both bolts are out, pry the old shock out and remove but make note of the routing so you put the new one in correctly. There are some tubes in the way that you need to route through. It'll make sense when you look at it.

9. Reroute new shock and attach top bolt.

10. SOMEWHAT TRICKY PART: The shock needs to be compressed in order to get it in the bottom bracket - here is what I did.

a. Take a long, sturdy, screwdriver and place the end through the bottom hole on the bracket and use the handle under the shock to compress the shock First Hole picture). It will compress and rise to the level of the bracket but not into it as the screwdriver hits the bracket. Here is where the second set of hands helps....hold the shock compressed and quickly move the screwdriver from the bottom hole to directly between the bracket and the shock and compress/push into the bracket (second hole picture). Once in, you'll need to compress the shock a little more in order to get the bolt to slide through by using the screwdriver under the shock (still in the bracket) and levering it up. Attach the bolt and tighten down.

11. Plug in the pig tail and push the air hose over the fitting on the shock.

12. Put it all back together and you're done.

No errors in the Driver information center and the trucks rides smooth again. Hope this helps someone who is as hesitant as I was. I'm not a mechanic either, but this is very doable.