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L2R Versus L3B. What's different? What's the same?


newdude

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Had the opportunity to get some information on the engine variants for the upcoming 2023 Colorado.  All three engines are obviously the 2.7 Turbo 4 cylinder which are from the Cylinder Set Strategy (CSS) engine family.  2.7T debuted in the 2019 full size pickup truck twins.

 

Canyon uses only the L3B in HO tune so this is about the Colorado's L2R vs its L3B Turbo Plus/HO counterparts.

 

Based on what I've gathered, L2R and L3B aren't all that different it seems.  They use the same charge air cooler, turbocharger, rotating assembly, cylinder heads and top end rotating assembly, injectors, etc.  So where does L2R seem do differ?  

 

From the intel I've been able to gather, oil piston squirters are deleted, and as a result of this, the engine is in its 237hp 259tq state of tune.  I swear there was something else changed, but I haven't been able to confirm it yet. 

 

A dealer source of mine said during the 2.7 HO training they got for Silverado that the L2R in the Colorado might be used to obtain a best-in-class MPG estimate number for it.  2023 Ranger 2wd with stop/start is rated for 21 city, 26 highway but that's with its sole engine option which is standard across the board.  The current 2022 Colorado 2wd with the 2.5 NA 4 cylinder is rated 19 city 25 highway, so it will be interesting to see where L2R comes into play on this.  The V6 currently in 2wd is 18 city 25 highway.  

 

2.7 HO in a 2wd Silverado is 19 city 22 highway so with its smaller footprint and less weight, the L3B Turbo Plus should do much better than that rating as well.  

 

As for L3B Turbo Plus (310hp/390tq) vs the L3B HO (310hp/430tq)?  Same exact engine.  Its just a different state of tune.  If you order a Turbo Plus you can LPO option the HO tune onto the truck for $395.  I think Turbo Plus however might be the goldilocks engine here as the 390tq peaks at 2000rpm vs the HO's 430tq at 3000rpm.  

Edited by newdude
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On 1/25/2023 at 9:00 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Thats a great replacement for my off road mountain based giant ass Silverado with L3B 2022 LTD to gain better MPG.  Ground clearance looks great too a key for my ops up here.  Grumpy the Colorado 2WD L2R would garner 40 mpg the way you take care of and properly drive!!!! 

 

@newdude you are parroting what my most excellent service manager was telling me the other day.  I wonder if the piston oil sprayers are what is causing the oil consumption at end of oil drain when oil is breaking a bit and fuel diluted?  Forming a light ash deposit on bottom of pistons that unweights  them slightly and allowing oil to pass the oil control rings. I am talking very low level consumption. Maybe similar to 6.6 oil usage we reading about at this site too. 

 

Note at 3000+ miles on Havoline Pro-Rs 5w30 Dexos 2 is not consuming at all. As an aside @Black02Silverado  sent me some Amsoil UCL and PI fuel additives and since using the PI as a cleaner every 4000 miles the first tank of cleaning with 86 octane E15 Maverik gasoline and we saw a 5.2% MPG increase.  Clean DI injectors help and UCL was used two tanks ago.  Nick you are reconverting me after years of being away from Amsoil products in earnest. The quality of the fuel and low octane here make PI every 4000 miles the ideal better living through chemistry.  

 

 

 

Edited by customboss
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On 1/25/2023 at 11:40 AM, customboss said:

 

@newdude you are parroting what my most excellent service manager was telling me the other day.  I wonder if the piston oil sprayers are what is causing the oil consumption at end of oil drain when oil is breaking a bit and fuel diluted?  Forming a light ash deposit on bottom of pistons that unweights  them slightly and allowing oil to pass the oil control rings. I am talking very low level consumption. Maybe similar to 6.6 oil usage we reading about at this site too. 

 

 

 

TBH, I don't know much about this topic?  However I just crash coursed 20 minutes about it.

 

Consensus during that 20 minutes seems to point to if there is overcooling of the pistons that can then lead to, over time, the carboning and sticking of oil control rings.  

 

To me, that speaks that if you paw-paw drive around in a vehicle all day long that has these and its over cooling, that it can lead to stuck rings.  Many of the oil consumption vehicles we see appear to be "babied" when driven.  I've heard customers use the "it never goes past 2500rpm" as if that is somehow going to protect their engine from any sort of problems.  Get out and WOT!  

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15 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Ring seal needs to become a priority. 

:(

If its carbon deposits its related to my theory that higher sulfated ash content oils will deposit or weight  the rings JUST ENOUGH  that at end of drain it eats a qt or so and that makes sense. Fingers crossed the lower ash Havoline Pro-Rs has less organo metallic additives and about 30% of your beloved estolides veggie syn base to clean whatever is there from fuel. Plus I am using Amsoil UCL and PI to hit it from the fuel side in addition to my E15 diet.  Thanks @Black02Silverado 

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  • 11 months later...

Update @ 2000 miles using DELO 600 ADF 10w30,  its not using any oil and its oddly better smelling oil than dexos 5w30 stuff , amazingly most likely no fuels dilute, tailpipe cleanliness even with gasoline E10 is literally NO SOOT.

 

I still run Maverik E15 most of the time. ( get 10 cents a gallon off posted price).  Every 4000 miles Amsoil PI cleans injectors.  Using this oil filter:

 

image.thumb.png.985c2ba91e72db2147f56bed619f912c.png

 

Champion labs makes this as the current PF66 but I paid about $5 a filter less. 

 

 

That L2R in a Colorado would be a perfect off road economy vehicle. 

 

 

 

 

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