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Posted

Hi I have an 04 gmc Sierra 1500 4wd I have a 4 inch rc lift with the keys cranked. I’m replacing my torsion bracket to get the 6 inch rc lift. Will I still be able to crank my keys to get more hight? How can I raise my front higher? 
also my keys are cranked one side goes all the way the other still have a 3 of the bolt till it’s all the way up why is this? (The way I have it cranked now the two sides sit at the same hight) 

Posted

Bad, bad, bad, some torsion bar cranking is OK sounds like you've gone too far already and are trying to go farther. You probably are operating with the ball joints, CV axles, and tie rods at angles outside their design. Ball and socket joints only go so far before they try to 'pop out' causing premature wear and literally pop out. Also, with too much torsion bar cranking the suspension runs out of droop or downward travel, causing poor ride quality - this is the first sign you've gone too far.  

 

The proper way to lift that amount is to lower (raise) the entire front suspension and differential the lift amount. 

 

Posted

My ride quality is very good actually and have had it like this for a few months. Anyway how do I go about lowering the suspension to raise the truck? 

Posted

The best way is a taller kit, most of those top out at 6" though... once you go outside kit territory it's custom fabrication. Definitely something best left to professional shops.

 

However, depending on the kit... it could be possible to combine some lift components to gain an extra inch or two. If the original lift kit raised the truck by lowering the entire suspension and DID NOT include any type of lift by torsion bar adjustment or spindle swap then you could add a little more by using the torsion bar keys. 

 

After looking at the what is on Rough Country's web site, with out a careful comparison to factory parts its hard to say exactly where all the lift is coming from. I suspect it comes from a little torsion bar adjustment from the "non-torsion bar drop brackets", spindles, and dropped cross member. The kit's geometry is altering CV-shaft angles and already includes a spacer to avoid over extending the shafts. They include this interesting verbiage: "to reduce cv angles and SIMULATE factory angles". I think this means they have increased the angle from factory, but they have reduced the angle from what it could be by other lift means. 

 

All the above to say: You could add some additional with torsion bar keys or cranking the adjustment bolts up. This will increase ball joint stress and wear and CV-shaft stress and wear. How much further you can go is determined by what compromises you want to make for longevity, ride quality and reliability.

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