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Transfer Case Leak, Repair Question.

Gangly
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Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

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I was changing my fluids the other day and noticed I had a leak at the seal between my transfer case and transmission.  Usually, this is indicative of a leaky transfer case input seal or transmission output seal, but could be both.  I will be pulling the transfer case to replace the worn seal(s), but replacing the seals can be a PAIN.  GM recommends inserting a self tapping screw into the transfer case input seal and pulling it out with pliers, but recommends tool J-36825 to replace the transmission output seal, which basically does the same thing as the self tapping screw.

 

Has anybody used the J-36825 tool to replace the input shaft seal on the transfer case?

 

 

Seal Removal.jpg

Oil Leak.jpg

Edited by Gangly
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

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In this image there is an actual screw in the seal.  Its hard to believe that is the recommended practice so I'm trying to see if anybody has had any luck with an alternative method.

Seal Removal 2.jpg

 

 

The recommended tool for the transmission output shaft is below.  Im not sure why it cant be used for the transfer case input seal as well.

 

Seal puller.jpg

Edited by Gangly
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  • Gangly changed the title to Transfer Case Leak, Repair Question.
21guns Enthusiast

21guns

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I have not replaced either of those seals, nor have I used that specific tool. However, I have replaced many seals using that procedure. Some people run a self tapping screw into the seal, I prefer (carefully) drilling a small hole and threading a machine screw into the seal. I put grease on the end of the drill bit to collect any debris. You can feel when you get to the main threads of the screw and there's no sense going further. My slide hammer kit came with an adapter to thread into a standard pair of vise grips. Use a screw that will allow you about an inch sticking out of the seal so you can clamp the vise grips on, then "tap, tap, tap" and it'll pull the seal. I always try just one screw 1st(less debris), if you pull the screw out and the seal stays in, move to a new spot and use 2 screws 180° apart. 

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gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

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2 hours ago, 21guns said:

I have not replaced either of those seals, nor have I used that specific tool. However, I have replaced many seals using that procedure. Some people run a self tapping screw into the seal, I prefer (carefully) drilling a small hole and threading a machine screw into the seal. I put grease on the end of the drill bit to collect any debris. You can feel when you get to the main threads of the screw and there's no sense going further. My slide hammer kit came with an adapter to thread into a standard pair of vise grips. Use a screw that will allow you about an inch sticking out of the seal so you can clamp the vise grips on, then "tap, tap, tap" and it'll pull the seal. I always try just one screw 1st(less debris), if you pull the screw out and the seal stays in, move to a new spot and use 2 screws 180° apart. 

 

This ^

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

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10 hours ago, 21guns said:

I have not replaced either of those seals, nor have I used that specific tool. However, I have replaced many seals using that procedure. Some people run a self tapping screw into the seal, I prefer (carefully) drilling a small hole and threading a machine screw into the seal. I put grease on the end of the drill bit to collect any debris. You can feel when you get to the main threads of the screw and there's no sense going further. My slide hammer kit came with an adapter to thread into a standard pair of vise grips. Use a screw that will allow you about an inch sticking out of the seal so you can clamp the vise grips on, then "tap, tap, tap" and it'll pull the seal. I always try just one screw 1st(less debris), if you pull the screw out and the seal stays in, move to a new spot and use 2 screws 180° apart. 

I guess it’s a much more commonly accepted solution than I originally thought.  Thanks for the great insight, I appreciate it!

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